[TheForge] Band saw

[Washington, Aubrey O.]

I wish I knew how to "fool" with mine.  I have a problem with the blade jumping off the wheels with little or no provocation.  I'm not very sophisticated about such machinery, so I don't know where to start in figuring out what the problem is.

Aubrey

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From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net [theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Peter Fels & Phoebe Palmer [artgawk at thegrid.net]
Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 3:04 PM
To: Blacksmithing List Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Band saw

As usual, Ries nailed it.
I've gotten amazing use from a cheap ,Taiwanese ,4" horizontal ,$135
Rong Foo ( really the brand name) that i bought 25 or more years ago.
I've replaced the motor and bearings ,etc over the years and it has cut
thousands of pieces of metal.
The cheaper they are, the more you have to fool with them, generally.
I think they are knock offs of the old Duro brand saw.
Look for a cast iron frame and bearings , not bushings or rub blocks for
the blade guides....good luck

ries wrote:
> All used tools are different.
> And depending on where you live, there may be lots of great deals on
> used $10,000 industrial saws for $100, or there may be no used equipment
> at all.
> So if you have some specific saws you are looking at, then let us know
> what they are.
> Generally, there are two kinds of bandsaw- horizontal and vertical.
> A vertical bandsaw is like the wood cutting saws- primarily for cutting
> sheet.
> Good brands include Do-All and Grob, and older Powermatics, among others.
>
> For a blacksmith/fab shop, I find a horizontal saw a lot handier- you
> can usually tilt them up, and cut some sheet metal, and then use them to
> cut pipe, bar, angle, round, and so on, turning them on and leaving them
> to gravity cut and turn themselves off when they are done.
>
> I consider a taiwanese 4x6 horizontal bandsaw to be as essential as a 4
> 1/2" grinder in a metal shop- we have two, along with a bigger 7x10, and
> we use em every day.
> We tilt em up, sit down on the saw, and freehand cut sheet metal,
> (within the size restrictions of the throat size) up to 1/2" plate, we
> freehand notch and miter stuff, and then we run em for hours on end
> using length stops to cut hundreds of identical parts in every metal,
> all kinds of profiles, and sizes.
> I like Jet, myself- mine have been ready to run right out of the box,
> with made in Taiwan motors, (dont know if they still do this) no
> adjustments to speak of. I have a 3 man shop, we do mostly stainless,
> and we run those little suckers for years on end. I run Lennox Diemaster
> 2 bimetal blades, and blade might last 3 or 4 weeks of stainless fab.
> They run anywhere from as cheap as $150 or so for a no name, all chinese
> bottom feeder, to about $475 for a Jet- and to me, the extra cost is
> well worth it- the jets have better bearings, motors, real bolts, they
> cut pretty square, can be adjusted, and last me years and years.
>
> I consider a $500 tool to be a consumable, though, the amount we use em.
> A real, industrial bandsaw, new, can easily run you $10,000 to $30,000
> or more for a nice new auto feed Amada- so a few hundred bucks for such
> a versatile tool is a real bargain.
>
> Ries
>
>
> On Aug 29, 2008, at 11:39 AM, jim poulmas wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> I'm looking to get a band saw but many that I've seen are for wood.
> (I'm talking used stuff here.) I've heard that if you get the right
> blade and a low enough speed that it doesn't matter. I'm not cutting
> anything except sheet metal and maybe some .5" square. Any
> suggestions?
> Thanks,
> Jim
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> Ries Niemi
> Industrial Artist
> http://www.riesniemi.com/
>
>
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