[TheForge] More Museum Madness

Chuck Robinson robi5515 at bellsouth.net
Mon Apr 7 13:20:23 EDT 2008


Instead of slitting the stock to make the steeled edge.I would suggest San 
Mai the stock.
i.e.. sandwich a piece of 1095 between 2 pieces of wrought iron and weld all 
three together
Then forge out the piece from the resulting stock
Chuck
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chuck Robinson" <robi5515 at bellsouth.net>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Monday, April 07, 2008 12:08 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] More Museum Madness


> I've been away at the BBS so just read your emails.
> I wouldn't argue with them. I would just submit 3 sample pieces for their 
> evaluation.
> 1- forged from 1095 $35
> 2- forged from steeled wrought iron etched in ferric chloride. $75
> 3- knife grade pattern weld Damascus $200
> Then Tell them to decide what they want you to make.
> Chuck
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Peter Hirst" <saltydog335 at aol.com>
> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 10:46 AM
> Subject: [TheForge] More Museum Madness
>
>
> Thanks for everyone's tips on dealing with the museum.  Here's a new 
> twist. I submitted a steel flint striker to the education department there 
> and got an interesting response.  "It looks very good, but is it all steel 
> or irone with a steeled edge?     Actually, I made the whole thing from 
> 1045, with max hardness (About R50C) on the striking edge and straw 
> tempered elsewhere). I thought it was pretty good, but they insist that 
> even so amll an item as a striker should be steeled. This from the 
> organization that sells machined scissors stamped "CHINA" in its crafts 
> center as colonial reproductions. But they are buying and i am selling ,SO 
> just to humor them I said I woulod look into steeling the edge, but can't 
> find out anythng specific about the process.
>
> The business ende of this item is about 3/16 x 3/8 x 3 1/2, one of the 
> long edges being the striking surface.  Couple of questions:
>
> Would I split the thin edge to insert the steel or fold the piece  over 
> the steel?
>
> What combination of mild and high carbon steels can I reasonbly expect to 
> forge weld in this configuration, and are there any special problems, 
> other than the obvious mechanical ones of  size that i need to look out 
> for.  I am willing to do this by trial and error, but would refer whatever 
> guidance I can scare up.
>
> Thanks.
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