[TheForge] Cleaning components
David E. Smucker
davesmucker at hotmail.com
Sun Oct 21 19:10:24 EDT 2007
I been waiting for someone to talk about one on rollers. You can use some
large casters for the rollers and then the weight doesn't have to be carried
by "end bearings". Weld a shaft on one end to take a bearing to hold it in
place on the rollers. Put the door in the other end -- if using heavy wall
line pipe. If you put a door in the side of the drum you will have problem
keeping it in shape -- gets beaten all to hell.
With the roller arrangement you can dive the drum with a V belt that just
rides on the drum on one side and on the motor pulley on the other. With
the large surface area of the drum it can just ride on the inside of the V
Belt the way some dryers are driven. With a small pulley on the motor you
get the correct reduction to drive the drum if using a typical 1750 motor.
(3450 is too fast.)
Don't expect to run it when you are around - and put it in an out building
of it's own -- generates lots of dirt. Around here most folks use just odd
bits of scrap, small off cuts etc. for the media. If you can find small
punchings they are great.
Dave Smucker
Brasstown, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Brewer" <danqualman at gmail.com>
To: "'Sponsored by ABANA'" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 3:48 PM
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Cleaning components
>I visited a foundry that had something like you are describing. It was a
> 14 inch pipe about 10 foot long one end was welded shut and the other had
> a
> door that was bolted on. It sat on a set of rollers with one being
> driven.
> It rotated at about 100 rpm. The interior of the tube hade been coated
> with
> Rino Liner ( the stuff that gets applied to pickup beds) to help dampen
> the
> noise that it made. They would load it up during the day with the parts to
> be deburred and then load in a bunch of common hardware (nut nad bolts
> and
> washers and small bits of cutoff metal ) and turn it on just before
> leaving
> the shop at night. It was on a timer so it would run about 10 hours. It
> made a lot of noise. The next day they would empty out the parts. You
> might want to start with some ceramic material first in a soapy water
> bath.
> The soap and water server to keep the media sharp and keep the stuff being
> deburred in suspension.
>
> Dan in Auburn WA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of George Rousis
> Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 9:55 AM
> To: Sponsored by ABANA
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Cleaning components
>
> find an old cement mixer...
>
> george
> On Oct 21, 2007, at 11:41 AM, Jerry Smith wrote:
>
>> Here is an idea, since photo finshing is almost non
>> existent, try finding one of the old print washer,
>> it's drum with a lot of circulation holes in it, with
>> in a water tight tub. Just plug it in and let it
>> rotate.
>>
>> Here is another idea, try a cement mixer, I saw a guy
>> use one to tumble his reloading brass in it, he could
>> do thousands of empty casings in it at a time.
>>
>> Jerry
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --- Larry Ruebush <lrt at winco.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Try starting off with a old hot water heater tank or
>>> a old water pressure
>>> tank.
>>> Larry Ruebush
>>> west central IL
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "Cindy and James" <jallcorn at suddenlink.net>
>>> To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>>> Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 8:31 AM
>>> Subject: [TheForge] Cleaning components
>>>
>>>
>>>> I have a bunch of component parts (small and a
>>> bunch of them 3-4 feet long)
>>>> for a project that need cleaning, deburring, etc.
>>> My current method is to
>>>> chuck them up in the vise, 1 by 1, wire brush,
>>> etc., etc., etc.
>>>>
>>>> I got the idea from a conference to build a
>>> tumbler. Just dump all the
>>>> stuff in along with ball bearings for media and
>>> turn it on. Probably
>>>> overnight would do the trick.
>>>>
>>>> Question for the group... Have any of you
>>> used/built a tumbler for this
>>>> process? If so, what size was it? How did you
>>> power it? How well did it
>>>> work and was it worth the effort? What approx.
>>> RPM did you run it.
>>>>
>>>> My thoughts on building one is to buy a piece of
>>> 24 to 30 inch diameter
>>>> pipe, weld plate to the ends, weld trailer or auto
>>> axle stubs in the
>>>> center of the plate and use the running gear
>>> portion (bearings, etc), to
>>>> support the whole thing welded to a framework of
>>> some sort. Put a pulley
>>>> on it and a motor and away you go.
>>>>
>>>> Another idea, a little more challenging (for me)
>>> would be to mount it on 2
>>>> auto differentials with wheels and tires, mounted
>>> parallel, they would
>>>> support the rig and permit turning, either by
>>> powering the gearbox or with
>>>> a pulley direct to the tumbler.
>>>>
>>>> Right now, I like method 1 better. Seems simpler,
>>> quicker, easier,
>>>> smaller footprint.
>>>>
>>>> My scrap yard has a 16 or 20 foot stick of 20" for
>>> about $10 a foot. I'd
>>>> use about 5 or 6 feet, keep the rest for BBQ
>>> smokers/pits. They also have
>>>> a 5' piece of 29" for about $14/ft. Both are
>>> around 5/8 to 3/4 wall pipe,
>>>> I didn't measure, just looked. Either one would
>>> be pretty heavy and
>>>> require a pretty good motor to start it going.
>>>>
>>>> Probably pretty noisy.
>>>>
>>>> I've thought about getting an old clothes dryer to
>>> use for small stuff
>>>> till I get this thing built. It would also tell
>>> me if it would work, and
>>>> how well.
>>>>
>>>> Ideas, comments?
>>>>
>>>> James Allcorn
>>>> Bois D'Arc Forge Blacksmith Shop
>>>> Paris, TX
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>>
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>
> George Rousis
> organic iron concepts
> feorge at kc.rr.com
>
>
>
>
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