[TheForge] Re: Trip Hammer Advice

[Kenneth Mayer]

>Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2007 09:33:45 -0900
>From: "Jerry Frost" <akfrosty at mtaonline.net>
>
>Slick 50's still around and probably changed some. It 
>had a problem originally as it contained teflon solids 
>in suspension and the solids coated your engine. Then 
>if you overheated the engine by much the teflon would 
>peal loose and clog the oil ports, and such. The only 
>way to clean it up was to totally strip the engine down 
>and physically remove it. Any left would come loose 
>later and migrate till it plugged something. . . In the 
>worse possible place of course, ala Murphy.
>
>Slick-50 also needs to bond to metal, the solids settle 
>out in the bottle so you have to mix it thoroughly 
>before putting it in your engine and then you have to 
>run your engine for half an hour or so after it warms 
>up. At least that's how it was last time I bought a 
>bottle but that was probably 25-30 years ago and I'd be 
>surprised if it still worked that way.
>
>Last I looked you could still get moly lubes and such 
>which are good for things needing grease or other 
>relatively dry lubes. I like the Duralube treatment 
>where lubricant is pumped or needs to flow. I put a 
>tbsp in the 30wt. I use in my old Lancaster blower as 
>well.

The teflon would accumulate in the piston ring grooves and cause the rings to stick.  The engine shortly thereafter begins burning a lot of oil.  The only cure is a rebuild.

If you need an oil with excellent wear resistance, use anything that has a lot of ZDDP.  "Mobil-1 Turbo Diesel Truck" 5W-40 contains 0.13%.  Any engine oil that has VW approval 502.00/503.01/505.00 will probably contain 0.1%+.

Ken
:-)