[TheForge] Green LED welding hood.
Jim Beard
regionalchaos at gmail.com
Sat May 26 22:18:29 EDT 2007
Thanks for the info Mikey! I'll definitely be setting something up as
soon as I get a welder. I'm looking at the lincoln 225 ac/dc model..
On 5/26/07, Kathy <keporter at comcast.net> wrote:
> Jim,
> You will be pleased to know that the helmet with three built in green LEDs is
> the newest Optrel. However, a green 23W CFL (candle equivalent to a 90W
> incandescent light), mounted on a swing arm so that you can aim it conveniently,
> is a LOT less money and a lot more effective for bench work. Also, buying a
> Harbor Freight variable auto-darkening helmet (visible light filter settings
> from #9 to #13) and installing your own LEDs is a lot less expensive for field
> work; eBay sells the green LEDs you'll need, and they operate just fine on 9V
> batteries (switches, etc, available from Radio Shack).
>
> Yes, these tricks also apply to torch work. Below are some excerpts from my
> vision chapter. Have fun:
> Mikey
>
> Choosing and Mounting LEDs:
> There are an ever increasing variety of LED choices, but for our purposes... it
> is...better to buy LEDs with the necessary resistor and a few inches of wiring
> already installed...(see resources list below)...to further simplify your work,
> only use one LED size (milliamp rating) on any given circuit...several LEDs
> wired in series on one circuit give the same individual brightness as a single
> diode...our electrical circuit begins at the battery's negative pole (the flat
> end on round batteries and the larger male snap fitting on rectangular
> batteries), followed by an on/off switch mounted near the battery, or on the
> goggle/hood between the battery and the first LED (the switch can also be
> mounted between the last LED and the positive battery pole if you prefer). Our
> LEDs can use a six, nine, or twelve volt battery, with very little difference in
> light output.
>
> The negative lead (or wire) of your first LED is connected facing toward the
> battery's negative pole...it's positive lead is connected facing the battery's
> positive pole. Multiple LEDs are mounted with their negative leads connected to
> the previous LED's positive lead, and their positive leads are then connected to
> the next LED's negative lead, with the positive lead of the last LED in the
> series facing the battery's positive pole.
> An LED's negative lead is always the shorter of the two extending wires...
> LEDs are merely described as red, green, blue, etc., by most merchandisers,
> although some will give their nanometer rating...this is comparable to most
> dichroic "notch" color filters. So far, only primary colors are available
> pre-wired, so if you want blue/green lights, you will have to wire them to their
> resistors yourself...LED mounting hole size for 8mm = .3150" and needs letter
> "0" drill bit
>
>
> Resources: Lighting Products
> 8mm green LED lights are available through various eBay dealers (be sure to buy
> them with resistors attached0.
>
> ClipMateT 3 LED Clip-On Light (green), is available from The LED Light, Inc.,
> 1617 Fairview Drive Ste 27-28, Carson City NV 89701 Tel: 1-775-841-4490 between
> 9 AM and 3 PM http://www.theledlight.com/clipmate.html
>
> Colored CFL Floodlights are available in red...green...from Creative Energy
> Technologies Inc., 2872 State Route 10, Summit NY 12175 Tel: 1-518-287-1428 Fax;
> 1-518-287-1459 Home page: Product page:
> http://www.cetsolar.com/compactfluorescent.htm and 18w white, or 23w colored
> bulb, equals an incandescent 100w bulb. They can be used inside or outside. They
> also sell less powerful twist CFL lights (13 watt equals an incandescent 60w
> bulb) in red, green, yellow, blue, and orange.
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net]
> On Behalf Of Jim Beard
> Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 2:35 PM
> To: Sponsored by ABANA
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Inverters & MIG Welders
>
> Someone posted on here a while back about a certain type of LED light
> that was visible through a welding hood. It sounded worth checking
> out. Starting blind sure was the hardest thing for me to get used to
> when I first learned to weld.
>
> *I'm also not a great welder :)
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
> theforge mail list group photo site is
> http://www.photoaccess.com
> Login: blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
> password: anvil
> ___________
>
>
>
More information about the TheForge
mailing list