[TheForge] Mineral Wool

[Kathy]

Jerry,
The problem does not come in measuring internal temperatures, but in comparing
apples and oranges. The temperature in one forge, no matter how scientifically
gathered, simply won't apply in the next man's forge.

For about six months I answered one challenge after another from people who
insisted they had built my burner designs "exactly according to directions" and
"completely by the book." It was quite an education. Finally, I told the last
naysayer that I would fix his burner for free, just like all the others--but I
would also post what I found out about it on Castinghobby (the Yahoo newsgroup
where I was being constantly challenged after Gas Burners was published). He
decided that he didn't want anything to do with the "freebee" on those terms,
and the river of people who kept insisting they had built their burners "exactly
according to specifications" suddenly dried up.

Burners are only one part of the heating system we call forges. Point taken?
Mikey

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net]
On Behalf Of Jerry Smith
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 2:08 PM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Mineral Wool

I have adigital meter that can go above 2200 degrees
and the I have access to a pyrometer that can go up to
2700 degree, that is F not C

Jerry

--- Jeffrey Polaski <jeff.polaski at rgs.uci.edu> wrote:

> >Any comment more than an anecdotal example is not
> going to be
> practical,
> >considering all the variables, including but not
> limited to:
> >Forge design and size
> >Insulating products used
> >Burner design, construction methods, & size used
> >And finally gas input pressure employed.
> Not to be difficult, but it's still be useful if
> five or so people could
> give a temperature and conditions report. It could
> be that
> ITC-100/Plistix raises the measured temp by, say 10%
> - 20%, without
> regard to the exact design of the forge. Most of the
> time people can
> estimate how much propane per hour their forge is
> using, etc... I don't
> think that anyone is looking for absolute scientific
> proof, just that
> it's a reasonable bet. 
> 
> I'd love to make some measurements myself, but I
> don't have any way to
> accurately measure temperature above 700 degrees or
> so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeff Polaski
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf
> Of Kathy
> Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 12:11 PM
> To: 'Sponsored by ABANA'
> Subject: RE: [TheForge] Mineral Wool
> 
> Steve Writes:
> "I do wish someone would measure before and after
> with ITC100. So far, 
> all I've heard is anecdotal "it was hotter"."
> 
> Any comment more than an anecdotal example is not
> going to be practical,
> considering all the variables, including but not
> limited to:
> Forge design and size
> Insulating products used
> Burner design, construction methods, & size used
> And finally gas input pressure employed.
> 
> Typical improvements, all other factors being equal
> are:
> >From red to red-orange heat as seen inside forge
> >From red-orange to pumpkin orange
> >From pumpkin to orange-yellow
> >From orange-yellow to lemon-yellow
> 
> With water separation to create colloidal zirconia
> before application of
> reflective layer; a forge capable of going to lemon
> yellow will then
> reach
> yellow-white. If a really hot burner design is then
> turned up, the forge
> interior turns almost pure white, and its ceramic
> blanket will suffer
> immediate
> damage. If yellow-white heat is maintained for more
> than a few minuets
> the
> blanket will suffer the same amount of damage.
> 
> What damage? Large chunks of the coated ceramic
> blanket will peel away
> from the
> insulation and will be blown out the exhaust or
> found on the forge floor
> upon
> cool down; this is caused by shrinkage of the
> underlying blanket below
> the
> coating layer. Even rigidizing will only delay such
> damage should a
> forge is
> taken to heats over those the ceramic blanket is
> rated for.
> Mikey   
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net]
> On Behalf Of Steven Smith
> Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 7:10 AM
> To: Sponsored by ABANA
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Mineral Wool
> 
> Both Kaowool and Durablanket are brand names. Within
> each brand name are
> 
> different products designed to work at different
> temperatures. You will 
> be unhappy if you get an inexpensive, low
> temperature wool. I use 
> Durablanket "S".
> 
> I agree with Bruce's recommendation of 2" thick, 8
> pounds per cubic foot
> 
> density. The denser stuff lasts better against
> mechanical damage. You 
> also should put a seal coat on the inside of your
> forge. You make up a 
> sort of mud and paint it on. I use Satanite. More
> expensive options that
> 
> reflect IR and improve the efficiency of your forge
> include ITC100.
> 
> I do wish someone would measure before and after
> with ITC100. So far, 
> all I've heard is anecdotal "it was hotter".
> 
> Steve
> 
> Jerry Smith wrote:
> > Folks,
> >
> > I need a number or a name or something for model
> or
> > brand of mineral wool, I need to buy some mineral
> wool
> > for rebuilding my forge and to build a new furnace
> for
> > melting glass.
> >
> > I am using Frosty's design for the burner, it
> works
> > great for me.
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jerry
> >
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