[TheForge] RE: The return of Dr. Frankenburner...etc.

[Kathy]

Pete F,
I know almost nothing about color blindness problems. The first thought which
comes to mind is to go with blue/green. In a torch working situation, blue-green
(cyan) would tend to activate the rods in your eyes rather than the cones. Rods,
which are responsible for night vision, give no color distinctions, but on the
other hand they are two and one half times more powerful than cones (color
vision) at giving sharp images.

It may be that you want to use color vision to make certain distinctions, and if
that's the case, I would need more detailed questions. The point I'm trying to
make is that a blue-green image from a gold plated plastic filter or dichroic
glass is not like that from a piece of tinted glass. The suppression range with
absorptive filters (tinted) is a fairly wide curve; you might think of them as
similar to a bell curve in the lighter ANSI shade ratings. The curve becomes
even flatter with darker absorptive shades. Reflective filters like gold, or
aluminum plating, or the ultra thin metal oxide coating on dichroic glass, form
what is called "notch" filters; for instance, the green safety filter at the
front of an auto-darkening welding hood lens admits almost all of the light it
passes in a band sixty nanometers wide or even less. Gold plating pass bands are
a little broader, and the plating is no where near as tough as the dichroic
glass coatings. However, especially for you, blue-green is likely to be a more
useful pass band than straight green is. The light given off from green LEDs
(for auto-darkening filters), or a combination of blue mixed with green LEDs
(for shade #4 gold plated filters) can be matched very closely to their pass
bands. What this means to you--or anyone else--is that almost ALL their light is
going to pass right through the filter and be available to you. Whatever your
particular vision problems, and they are many for the human race, such USABLE
lighting is going to enormously improve your view. What I've discussed doesn't
amount to a drop in the bucket compared to what I've learned on the subject of
vision enhancement. If you would like to pursue the subject further, either
on-group or privately, I'm at your service. Within a couple more years ANSI
rated safety filters be available in red, green, blue, and yellow; at that point
you will be able to change filter colors and fine tune your way around your
particular problem with ease. In the meantime there is still a lot you can do to
help yourself.
Mikey

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net]
On Behalf Of Peter Fels And Phoebe Palmer
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2007 11:58 PM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] RE: The return of Dr. Frankenburner...etc.

What i found with John Fick's  ceramic ball forge was that it was 
a nuisance for delicate work because it would get bent up while 
stuffing the work into the pile of ceramic balls.
Changing size, weight, and surface texture would solve the problem.
John said that after a few months of use he had to add more balls 
because the wore down.
The balls were of some sort of high alumina refractory mix that 
he rolled to shape in his palms...kinda like very heavy meatballs.
What was really good about it was the even heat and lack of 
scaling....
Mike, a question about your self illuminating  gas welding goggle...
I don't see red/green very well...will it still work for me?
Thanks!......pete f

Jerry Frost wrote:
> 
> From: "Kathy" <keporter at comcast.net>
> 
> 
> 
>> Far be it from me to complain about controversy,
>> But I fail to see any other threads going on. What became of ceramic 
>> ball forges
>> for instance?
>> Mikey
>>
> 
> 
> Well, I fell off the wagon at work and didn't get the shop closed in so 
> my involvement in experimenting with forges has been really limited. 
> Last summer I rammed up a couple fire clay refractory test models and 
> wasn't particularly impressed. Still need to experiment with shapes till 
> I at least get close, then I'll make one from high temp refractory and 
> start tuning.
> 
> Sometime next summer, after closing in the shop. <sigh>
> 
> Frosty
> -------------------------------
> If it ain't forged
> it ain't real.
> Wrought iron is.
> The FrostWorks
> 
> Meadow Lakes, AK.
> 
> http://www.artmetalradio.com/
> 
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