[TheForge] Re: Burner angle

[Jerry Frost]

Mounting the burner in a way you could change the angle 
is an alternative for sure. I always make prototypes 
with every imaginable adjustment possible. Once I get 
the thing fine tuned I know which ones to eliminate and 
which to keep.

Making one where the burners move in use though. . . 
Well, there are other alternatives for making the forge 
a uniform heat:

Many small burners arranged to force a vortex is 
probably the easiest. I like mounting them in the 
sidewalls, one set low the opposing set high.

Another method is shaping the burner nozzle(s). Burner 
blocks and fans come to mind. A burner block is a 
refractory plenum with lots of small holes feeding into 
the forge chamber.

A rototiller drag bar keeps the tiller from running 
away, with you flapping from the handlebars in a 
cartoon-like manner. It's basically an adjustable steel 
blade that drags in the turned soil behind the tiller 
to act as a brake.

Frosty
-------------------------------
If it ain't forged
it ain't real.
Wrought iron is.
The FrostWorks

Meadow Lakes, AK.

http://www.artmetalradio.com/

From: "Mike Spencer" <mspencer at tallships.ca>



>
> I don't have a gas forge, never built one and have 
> only used old
> ones from the PRR [1] era.  So this idea is worth 
> what you're paying
> for it. :-)
>
> How about you mount the burner(s) on a pivot, as 
> close to the nozzle
> as possible, allowing maybe 10 or 15 degrees of 
> movement. Attach that
> to some kind of pendulum affair with a period a 
> second or so.  Then
> the burner is constructed to aim directly at the 
> floor for localized
> heat and can be held there with a latch or pin.  Or 
> the pin can be
> removed and the burner can then wash back and forth 
> over a wider area.
> A vane in the exhaust draft might work to power the 
> bobbing motion and
> make tuning the pendulum less tricky.
>
> Obviously I don't know what I'm talking about.  Or do 
> I? :-)
>
> Jerry> I thought I would curl one end for the 
> attachment pin
> Jerry> and then drill the other end for the actual 
> drag bar.
>
> Actually, I don't know what a tiller drag bar is but 
> I agree with
> frosty that modern leaf spring is durable and at 
> least reasonably
> forgiving.  To make the tiller tine, I torched to 
> rough width, ground,
> drew out to taper and thickness, forged a rough edge, 
> straightened,
> bent, forged the mount end to size and drilled two 
> holes.
>
> [And yes, "5610" was a typo. I meant "what Frosty 
> said".]
>
>
> - Mike
>
> [1] Pre Ron Reil. i.e. Jurassic forges.
>
> -- 
> Michael Spencer                  Nova Scotia, Canada 
> .~.
> 
> /V\