[TheForge] Re: TheForge Digest, Vol 42, Issue 25 D rings

[Ray Clontz]

I just picked up the latest sales mailer from Tandy leather (The Leather 
Factory)
They list a lot of sizes of D- Rings- all seem to be on sale-  all are 
stainless- the cheapest is a flat formed cinch  dee in stainless - 1 inch 
for $.85 usually $1.85----- Original Message ----- 
From: <theforge-request at mailman.qth.net>
To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 3:02 AM
Subject: TheForge Digest, Vol 42, Issue 25


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> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. mesquite charcoal production ( was RE: question regarding
>      depth...) (terry l. ridder)
>   2. RE: mesquite charcoal production ( was RE: questionregarding
>      depth...) (Grant Marcoux)
>   3. Re: question regarding depth of charcoal forge (Saint Phlip)
>   4. Re: Setting screws in concrete floor Mostly OT (Larry Brown)
>   5. RE: question regarding depth of charcoal forge
>      (Washington, Aubrey O.)
>   6. Re: D-rings (Peter Fels And Phoebe Palmer)
>   7. Re: D-rings (Saint Phlip)
>   8. Re: Making a drag bar (Jerry Frost)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 17:05:20 -0500 (CDT)
> From: "terry l. ridder" <terrylr at blauedonau.com>
> Subject: [TheForge] mesquite charcoal production ( was RE: question
> regarding depth...)
> To: Sponsored by ABANA <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62.0707111702220.2947 at edgar.blauedonau.com>
> Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
>
> hello;
>
> On Wed, 11 Jul 2007, Washington, Aubrey O. wrote:
>
>>
>> Grant,
>>
>> Here is an article that talks about the ecological
>> problems of mesquite charcoal production:
>> http://www.american.edu/TED/mesquite.htm
>>
> aubrey
>
> thank you for the url.
>
> yet another testament to mankind's short sightness.
>
>>
>> Aubrey
>>
>
> -- 
> terry l. ridder ><>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 15:17:20 -0700
> From: "Grant Marcoux" <gblacksmith at alamedanet.net>
> Subject: RE: [TheForge] mesquite charcoal production ( was RE:
> questionregarding depth...)
> To: "terry l. ridder" <terrylr at blauedonau.com>, "Sponsored by ABANA"
> <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Message-ID: <MBEHKKCHPGMAODOPBFHKMENMDAAA.gblacksmith at alamedanet.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1250"
>
> Terry/Aubrey:  Thanks for the info  Its worse than I thought....I spent 
> more
> than a few happy hours wandering in the upper-Sonoran type deserts in AZ. 
> I
> used to pretend I was on another planet while doing so.  A shame to think
> that this type of land use is going on  Grant
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of terry l. ridder
> Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2007 3:05 PM
> To: Sponsored by ABANA
> Subject: [TheForge] mesquite charcoal production ( was RE: 
> questionregarding
> depth...)
>
>
> hello;
>
> On Wed, 11 Jul 2007, Washington, Aubrey O. wrote:
>
>>
>> Grant,
>>
>> Here is an article that talks about the ecological
>> problems of mesquite charcoal production:
>> http://www.american.edu/TED/mesquite.htm
>>
> aubrey
>
> thank you for the url.
>
> yet another testament to mankind's short sightness.
>
>>
>> Aubrey
>>
>
> --
> terry l. ridder ><>
> _______________________________________________
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 19:38:18 -0400
> From: "Saint Phlip" <phlip at 99main.com>
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] question regarding depth of charcoal forge
> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Message-ID:
> <30aedccb0707111638r72ca4845n11c464772de586c4 at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Umm, my charcoal isn't made from mesquite plants. Generally it's from
> northern hardwoods.
>
> On 7/11/07, Grant Marcoux <gblacksmith at alamedanet.net> wrote:
>> 4" deep is good....you need to be able to maintain a proper neutral layer
>> for good welding.  I have found that a 4" deep firepot is fine for 
>> charcoal
>> fires in this regard as the air blast, properly managed, is far enough 
>> from
>> the work piece to prevent oxidation.  Tis a great fuel for welding...I 
>> have
>> gotten good results in shallow pots with it.
>>
>> I have also been told that charcoal is not an eco-friendly fuel; not 
>> because
>> of the way it burns, but that the Mexican mesquite/chaparral plant 
>> community
>> it is made from is basically forcibly uprooted in the desert environments 
>> it
>> grows in by vehicles towing big plows/rakes of a sort.  It is said that 
>> many
>> animals are displaced and killed by this harvest method.  I have not seen
>> this first hand, but have been told of it by folks in a position to know.
>>
>> Maybe someone out there knows more about this than I do.  I would like to
>> know the truth of the issue, as I have minimized my purchases of charcoal
>> for this reason.
>>
>> Grant
>>
>
> -- 
> Saint Phlip
>
> Heat it up
> Hit it hard
> Repent as necessary.
>
> Priorities:
>
> It's the smith who makes the tools, not the tools which make the smith.
>
> Blessed be the self-righteous, for they shall inherit themselves.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 20:17:38 -0400
> From: Larry Brown <lp.brown at verizon.net>
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Setting screws in concrete floor Mostly OT
> To: Sponsored by ABANA <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20070711194613.017ec0f0 at incoming.verizon.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
>
> Drop in anchors. Drill the hole a little deeper than the anchor, blow it
> out and use the set tool to ram the plug down. If the tool won't go down 
> to
> the shoulder don't worry I haven't had them come loose.  Firm blows with a
> lump hammer. Use the longest bolt possible to get as much bite as you can.
> You can't remove these easily afterwards.
> You can split concrete slabs (Unintentionally) by putting a few of the
> larger ones in a row and setting them all the way
>
> L Brown
>
> At 08:04 AM 7/11/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>>I have a job to forge some 'keeps' for chairs in a
>>theatre. They will be screwed to the floor with 1/4 20
>>bolts. The problem is that they must be removable so
>>the chairs can be removed to make room for wheel
>>chairs. My problem is in putting  the female part of
>>the bolt (the 'nut') in the concrete floor.
>>If anyone has any experience with a problem like this
>>I could really use some advice.
>>Thanks for your help, Lynn
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 19:31:38 -0500
> From: "Washington, Aubrey O." <awashington at ou.edu>
> Subject: RE: [TheForge] question regarding depth of charcoal forge
> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Message-ID:
> <009369A0585DE54DB22491ACD55081201DE60C at XMAIL1.sooner.net.ou.edu>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> I'm not criticizing the use of charcoal for forging.  I'm just suggesting 
> awareness of where yours comes from and at what price.  Same awareness is 
> appropriate with coal and propane.  All human activity has a price.
>
> Aubrey
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net on behalf of Saint Phlip
> Sent: Wed 7/11/2007 6:38 PM
> To: Sponsored by ABANA
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] question regarding depth of charcoal forge
>
>
>
> Umm, my charcoal isn't made from mesquite plants. Generally it's from
> northern hardwoods.
>
> On 7/11/07, Grant Marcoux <gblacksmith at alamedanet.net> wrote:
>> 4" deep is good....you need to be able to maintain a proper neutral layer
>> for good welding.  I have found that a 4" deep firepot is fine for 
>> charcoal
>> fires in this regard as the air blast, properly managed, is far enough 
>> from
>> the work piece to prevent oxidation.  Tis a great fuel for welding...I 
>> have
>> gotten good results in shallow pots with it.
>>
>> I have also been told that charcoal is not an eco-friendly fuel; not 
>> because
>> of the way it burns, but that the Mexican mesquite/chaparral plant 
>> community
>> it is made from is basically forcibly uprooted in the desert environments 
>> it
>> grows in by vehicles towing big plows/rakes of a sort.  It is said that 
>> many
>> animals are displaced and killed by this harvest method.  I have not seen
>> this first hand, but have been told of it by folks in a position to know.
>>
>> Maybe someone out there knows more about this than I do.  I would like to
>> know the truth of the issue, as I have minimized my purchases of charcoal
>> for this reason.
>>
>> Grant
>>
>
> --
> Saint Phlip
>
> Heat it up
> Hit it hard
> Repent as necessary.
>
> Priorities:
>
> It's the smith who makes the tools, not the tools which make the smith.
>
> Blessed be the self-righteous, for they shall inherit themselves.
> _______________________________________________
> Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
> theforge mail list group photo site is
> http://www.photoaccess.com <http://www.photoaccess.com/>
> Login:  blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
> password:  anvil
> ___________
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 21:55:05 -0700
> From: Peter Fels And Phoebe Palmer <artgawk at thegrid.net>
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] D-rings
> To: Sponsored by ABANA <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Message-ID: <4695B429.3040502 at thegrid.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Life with the Temporally Challenged is tough, just ask my wife...pf
>
> Saint Phlip wrote:
>> I was thinking about that, but I'd need either a propane forge to heat
>> the stock I have available (1/8" stainless) with any dispatch, or a
>> torch, and I have neither. And, making them would take time away from
>> what I'm trying to do, which is get ready for Pennsic. I'll be leaving
>> on the 26th, and I still need to finish sewing the buckles (or
>> D-rings) on to the walls, make a pair of Viking chairs (including
>> finishing them with tung oil), build the anvil stump, and a zillion
>> other things, that I started early on, but I can't convince my
>> roommate that the things I need him to do, I need him to do NOW, not
>> 15 minutes before I leave.
>>
>> For example, I asked him to either fix my treadle sewing machine (I
>> know nothing about them other than how to use them without sewing me
>> to the fabric) or sew up the fabric I have. He agreed to sew the
>> fabric, and keeps putting it off until it's too late to get much done.
>>
>> On 7/11/07, Peter Fels And Phoebe Palmer <artgawk at thegrid.net> wrote:
>>> Hi Phlip;
>>> You can rip these out pretty quickly by using the old ring making
>>> method of wrapping rod around a pipe and running down one side of
>>> the coil with a torch or slitting disk. The trick is to pull as
>>> you wrap.
>>> To make the "D", simply cut off a strip down one side of the
>>> pipe...that'll make cutting the coil easy.
>>> Then a couple of swats to straighten and a quick zap with a
>>> welder finishes them off....pete f
>>>
>>> Dan Scheid wrote:
>>
>> I'm going nuts, trying to get things done. Normally, JoAnne fabric
>> would have just what I need, but they're out.
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 01:41:40 -0400
> From: "Saint Phlip" <phlip at 99main.com>
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] D-rings
> To: artgawk at thegrid.net, "Sponsored by ABANA"
> <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Message-ID:
> <30aedccb0707112241k1ad80fe9wac7d613e184e710c at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> On 7/12/07, Peter Fels And Phoebe Palmer <artgawk at thegrid.net> wrote:
>> Life with the Temporally Challenged is tough, just ask my wife...pf
>
> Believe me, I understand- I resemble that remark ;-) But, I'm getting
> very tired of running around like a maniac at the last minute,
> throwing everything into a vehicle, and driving off in a cloud of
> dust, only to discover I forgot my (whatever) that I REALLY wanted to
> take to Pennsic, but brought along a box of trash that was _supposed_
> to go in the dumpster.
>
> My plot and plan this year has been to do a little bit of everything
> every day, and fix up some of the things I've been putting off, so
> everything is ready and packed by Wednesday evening. Then, I can spend
> Thursday resting and picking up the odd items I invariably forget, so
> when I get in the Jeep for my overnight drive, I'm not dead tired, and
> having no room to stretch out for a nap, drive through the 10 hours
> anyway. And, once I'm there, I _should_ be a couple hours early for
> gate opening, which means I can run into town, pick up some groceries
> and beer, and at Noon Friday, Troll in, park on the battlefield, and
> drink beer and maybe eat a couple sandwiches, greet friends, and
> generally relax until 9 AM Sat morning when we deal with Land Grab,
> then set up camp without being so tired I try to put the tent stakes
> in upside down. Should even hqave time, and an empty truck, to run
> over to the storage locker and grab some Pennsic only necessities, and
> then I'll have Sunday to set up my forge just right, and spend Land
> Week nesting and thumping on steel.
>
> But, DAMNED if I want to handstitch 40 yards of seams, figuring it
> takes me about an hour a yard, between now and then, not to mention
> make 50 D-rings, as well as everything else I need to do.
>
> -- 
> Saint Phlip
>
> Heat it up
> Hit it hard
> Repent as necessary.
>
> Priorities:
>
> It's the smith who makes the tools, not the tools which make the smith.
>
> Blessed be the self-righteous, for they shall inherit themselves.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 21:43:19 -0800
> From: "Jerry Frost" <akfrosty at mtaonline.net>
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Making a drag bar
> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Message-ID: <02a601c7c447$8df38f60$6401a8c0 at albatross>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> No problem forging 5160 Jerry, just don't overheat it,
> high orange is about it and don't work it below red.
> Once done anneal it and you'll be able to do any
> drilling, cutting, filing, etc. you need. It'll show up
> any warpage too so you can do any necessary
> straightening. Heat treat by bringing to critical and
> quenching in warm 110-120f oil. Temper to near spring
> blue.
>
> A progressive temper works well on 5160 but the colors
> run close and fast so you have to be on your toes.
>
> Frosty
> -------------------------------
> If it ain't forged
> it ain't real.
> Wrought iron is.
> The FrostWorks
>
> Meadow Lakes, AK.
>
> http://www.artmetalradio.com/
>
>
> From: "Jerry Smith"
> <jerry_smith at anvilsandinkstudios.com>
>
>
>>I bought a 8 Hp Monkee Wards Rotor tiller, but it
>> didn't have the drag bar. The area for the drag bar
>> is
>> 4 1/2 by 4 1/2 inches and has a 5/8 bolt thru the
>> area. This space is about 4 inches deep.
>>
>> I was thinking of using some channel steel that I
>> have
>> for the cross member and use an old truck spring for
>> the actual drag bar. I want to forge the truck
>> spring/drag bar into the right shape.
>>
>> Any one have any advice or ideas?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Jerry
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
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>
> End of TheForge Digest, Vol 42, Issue 25
> ****************************************