[TheForge] Identifying Wrought Iron
Rowland Smuck
rsmuck at hughes.net
Mon Jan 29 13:42:43 EST 2007
Jim, I would be interested in a link or 2, I live in Roseburg so it would be
easy to pickup!!
Rowland of Roseburg, OR 97470
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Beard" <regionalchaos at gmail.com>
To: <munlaw2 at hcsmail.com>; "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 10:00 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Identifying Wrought Iron
> Yes, thank you all for the information. I know that this topic has
> probably already been covered a hundred times over, but I wanted to
> ask again! I was especially curious about the difference in opinion
> I've read about whether wrought is good or bad to forge with. I know
> one of the local smiths I have learned a lot from went off one time
> about how excited he was about finding some pure iron. Not wrought,
> just pure iron. Anyway, I think I'll head back to the scrap yard this
> week and see if they still have the links laying around.
>
> Thanks for indulging me!
>
> Jim
> Eugene, OR
>
> On 1/29/07, Ron Childers <munlaw2 at hcsmail.com> wrote:
> > Good job, Albin
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> > [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Albin
Drzewianowski
> > Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 12:19 PM
> > To: Sponsored by ABANA
> > Subject: Re: [TheForge] Identifying Wrought Iron
> >
> > Jim,
> >
> > See my answers inserted in your text below.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jim Beard" <regionalchaos at gmail.com>
> > To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> > Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 11:11 AM
> > Subject: [TheForge] Identifying Wrought Iron
> >
> >
> > > Howdy Kind Folks!
> > >
> > > Now that the domain is working again... I had a question about
> > > identifying wrought iron. Whats the best way to go about it? I'm
> > > assuming you want to be able to see the grain to
> > > actually tell, so cutting it would likely be the easiest way? What
> > > about filing down the surface? Would that expose grains in wrought if
> > > they were there?
> >
> > The most conclusive way for a blacksmith (vs a metalurgist who has a lab
> > full of wiz-bang equipment) is probably a spark test. When held to a
> > grinder, wrought iron gives a very distinct spark pattern: short red
sparks
> >
> > with no starbursts. Get a piece of known wrought iron to use as a
> > comparison piece. Collect a number of samples of known steels: AS36,
> > coilspring, old file(high carbon), etc. Then lightly touch each to a
> > grinder and notice the difference in the sparks: color, lenght of
sparks,
> > amount of forking and numbers of starbursts. You want to apply the
same
> > amount of pressure each time, and do it in dim light if possible. Now
that
> >
> > they have battery powered 4 1/2" grinders, you can do this test in the
field
> >
> > (scrapyard).
> >
> > Another test which is much more distructive, is to cut a piece half way
> > through and then place in vice and bend over and snap the piece, the
> > resulting break will look like you had broken a piece of green wood, it
> > would have a fibrous look to it. Try the same thing with a piece of
mild
> > steel for comparison. This test not physically practical in your case
with
> >
> > 1 1/2" thick chain.
> >
> > >
> > > I'm rather new to smithing (being beating hot iron once a week or so
> > > for the last year at a friends forge) and as such don't have much
> > > experience identifying metals. Last week however, I was out at the
> > > local steel scrap yard (I try to go once a month or so), and found a
> > > few large chain links. The links were over a foot or more long, and
> > > the metal was about 1.5" in diameter. The metal had been painted over
> > > (i think) and was covered in a thick layer of dirt. I couldn't really
> > > see the surface of the metal. However, it did seem like it had a
> > > grain to it. Almost like the surface was one of a tree branch. The
> > > links look like they had been lap welded on one end (as opposed to the
> > > middle of a side, which is what I have seen examples of..). Anyway, I
> > > wondered if these were old Wrought Iron links..
> >
> > The distinctive bark like look to wrought iron is the result of heavy
rust.
> > The surface layers of iron rust away, leaving the layers of slag.
Usually if
> >
> > the item is painted you will not get this affect, unless it was painted
have
> >
> > rusting. Becareful removing the paint, if infact it was wrought iron,
> > chances are the pain used had a high LEAD content. So avoid fumes if
> > burning off the paint and avoid the dust if grinding/sanding off the
paint.
> >
> > > Also (I'm sure this is a can of worms here) but I've read some
> > > information about Wrought that says it was not as nice to forge as
> > > mild steel, yet I hear smiths talk about finding it and liking it too,
> > > so I'm a bit confused. Is it easy / hard / fun / boring to forge
> > > with?
> >
> > Working with wrought iron is DIFFERENT. You need to work at a VERY high
> > temperature - yellow into white. Also, you need to take the direction
of
> > the "grain" into account as you would take the grain of a piece of wood
into
> >
> > account when making something.
> >
> >
> >
> > > Thanks!
> > >
> > > Jim
> >
> > Regards,
> > D-ski
> > Westminster, MD
> >
> >
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