[TheForge] Wood Stove for Shop heat OT

[Jerry Frost]

I don't know If I'd glorify my ramblings as a 
"treatise" but thanks anyway Andy. <grin> I'm just 
passing on what I've learned over the years like so 
many others on the list.

There's another thing about wood heaters and insurance 
companies you absolutely MUST know.

Some will allow blowers or fans to scavange heat some 
won't. Things like stack robbers cool the smoke, 
increase creosote buildup and fire danger. Some county 
codes won't allow them either. Anyway, if you have one 
on your stove and your insurance doesn't allow them you 
have NO fire coverage, zero. Not telling them won't 
help either; if they find one in the ashes, you aren't 
covered, even if it was an electrical fire on the other 
side of the house.

They usually don't like a home made stove either but 
some will allow them upon inspection by the fire 
marshal, their inspectors, etc.

Just being out in the sticks doesn't change things 
outside of not having city codes to live by, the 
insurance company still has juristiction in these 
things.

Frosty
-------------------------------
If it ain't forged
it ain't real.
Wrought iron is.
The FrostWorks

Meadow Lakes, AK.

http://www.artmetalradio.com/

From: "Andy Gladish" <gladish at cnw.com>


> Thanks for the treatise on wood heat, Frosty, lots of 
> good info.
> Odd that we'd be discussing this today...I woke up 
> thinking how my mom still
> complains that all the furniture she brought from her 
> cabin in Michigan
> still smells like creosote- we don't have that 
> problem here. When I first
> installed my wood heater, I thought that insulated 
> stovepipe was silly, not
> the way we did it "where I come from" and now I 
> really appreciate what it
> does: Great draft all the time, since the stack stays 
> hot, and most
> important no condensation which is the source of 
> creosote.
> Outside burners aren't so popular here, but there 
> have been several notable
> successes. Best design seems to be a small air space 
> between stove and
> masonry, hot hot hot fires once a day, and water 
> circulating in the
> masonry/sand jacket. That way you get the best 
> qualities of external heat
> sinks in a small enclosed system. The heated water 
> supplies baseboards or
> in-floor tubing.
> I have a small wood stove in my strawbale house- the 
> interior walls and the
> floor are my heat sinks- 1" of plaster on the walls, 
> 6" of soil-cement floor
> which heats nicely from the stove and supplements the 
> floor radiant heat
> nicely. Also gives us a hot spot to cuddle up to, 
> which is the only drawback
> of radiant heat systems (if you don't include a 
> radiator somewhere).
>