[TheForge] Wood Stove for Shop heat

[Peter Fels And Phoebe Palmer]

Hey Andy;
The critical factor in power generation will be the amount of fall.
Check and make sure that no fish migrate along the stream.
Running water wants to level anything in it's way, Make sure to 
harden your spillway and surroundings...pf

Jerry Frost wrote:
> 
> 
> From: "Andrew Vida" <osan at netlabs.net>
> 
> 
> 
>>
>>
>> El Frio wrote:
>>
>>> No reputable manufacturer builds wood burners with catalytic 
>>> converters anymore,
>>
>> Wow, it is amazing what one learns in this forum at times.  My friend, 
>> Butthole, never had a problem with his AFAIK, but he did replace it a 
>> few years ago, so maybe it didn't work out as well as it once seemed. 
>> Nevertheless, that stove ran like the devil and ate very little wood.
>>
> 
> Maintenance is the key and you can't reliably do it on a schedule 
> because of differing wood quality. A few loads of bad wood can plug a 
> catalytic in a couple days, then they generate creosote rather than burn 
> it. This is what happened to us last spring and the stack fire nearly 
> burned us out. If it'd gotten started half an hour later Deb would've 
> been napping and I would've lost her with the house.
> 
>>
>>
>> Are you saying that your active burning fire is in chamber 1, heating 
>> wood in chamber 2 and thereby driving off the volatiles for heat, 
>> resulting in charcoal that is then moved to chamber 1 for heat and to 
>> drive a new batch of volatiles from new wood loaded into chamber 2?
>>
> 
> That's pretty much exactly how it works though the charcoal burns at the 
> bottom of the wood chamber instead of actually moving down. I spent some 
> time looking through my list of links, (deleating the dead ones, thank 
> you for inspiring me to go through them. <grin>) and have included a 
> number. The indirect boiler I was talking about or one very like it is 
> called a "Wood gassification boiler" and there's a link below.
> 
>>
>>
>> I suppose it would be best to vent barrel 1 into barrel 2 opposite the 
>> flue end and vent barrel 2 at the flue end, like so:
>>
>>                                               | Flue |
>>         ______________________________________| |___
>>        | |
>>        |         ____        ____        ____ |
>>        |        /    \      /    \      /    \ |
>>        |       |      |    |      |    |      | |
>>        |        \____/      \____/      \____/ |
>>        |              Heat Exchanger |
>>        |___ ________________________________________|
>>        ____| |________________________________________
>>        | |
>>        | |
>>        |                  Fire |
>>        | |
>>        | |
>>
>> |__________________________________________________|
>>
>> This what you mean?
>>
> 
> 
> Pretty close but this is how I build them.
> 
>    __I    I____________________________________
>    I I
>  _I________________________________________I_
>   fan in >     15gl grease barrel.         Warm air out  >  >  >
>  ___________________________________________
>    I I
>    I____________________________________      _I
>                                                        
>                      I    I
>     ____________________________________I    I__
>    I_   >_____________________________________I
>    I                                 baffle I
>    I I fire door
>    I                                    fire box I
>    I I
>    I_________________________________________ < draft
> 
> 
> 
> 
>>
>>
>> I asked one of the brokers about that and they said "no".  Perhaps 
>> this is a state-by-state thing?  In any event, I intend on eventually 
>> damming the creek to at least 10'.  I may go higher so I can build a 
>> bridge across the top to the other side in case a house or other 
>> building goes up on the north exposure.  But even at 10' that will 
>> easily exceed 100K gallons of reserve, probably by many times actually.
>>
> 
> Talk to the fire, marshal, chief, inspector, whatever. If s/he says it 
> lowers your fire danger your insurance co will go along. Asking an 
> insurance broker never gets you a discount in these circumstances, 
> s/he's NOT going to put his/er butt on the line by saying it's safer.
> 
>>
>> There's not a lot you can do about the length of your
>>> driveway except make sure it's well maintained and always passable.
>>
>> Would you suggest I get a plow?  It would seem the right thing to do.
>>
> 
> If you get more than a couple inches of snow a year then yes. One thing 
> you can bet the farm on is: Nothing goes wrong when or where it's easy 
> to get to.
> 
>>
>>
>> That's pretty costly, given the amount of earth that will have to be 
>> moved, the gravel, and the culverts. That part will have to wait a 
>> while, unless I get lucky and find a good running excavator at scrap 
>> prices.
>>
> 
> It is in fact too expensive for most folk but you might luck out. The 
> people who own or buy the acerage south of you might be willing to split 
> the cost of putting in an access road to their land if they allow you to 
> tie into it. You'd both save on insurance and be that much safer if and 
> when an emergency arises with one road impassable.
> 
>>
>> Speaking of damming the creek, I was thinking of running a 4' culvert 
>> (steel?  Concrete?) along the flow in which to mount a large stainless 
>> steel gate valve.  One reason is to have a means of clearing silt and 
>> the other would be to provide a means of flow control in the event we 
>> would one day put in a turbine for power.  Or I suppose I could build 
>> a gate from heavy plate.  Anyone have any thoughts about the idea in 
>> theory and on how to do it?
>>
>> -Andy
>>
> 
> Yeah, there is a lot of info on building holding ponds, dams, flumes, 
> penstocks, pelton wheels, generators and the like online. In most 
> smaller scale dams there is a flush gate. (I don't know if that's the 
> right term but it describes the function) The flush gate serves a number 
> of purposes but mainly it allows you to empty the pond to clean. If the 
> pond bottom is laid out properly all you have to do is open the gate and 
> the increased current will clean out the silt.
> 
> This is a list of wood stoves, heaters and dealers.
> 
> http://www.quadrafire.com/products/stoves/woodStoves.asp
> http://hearth.com/prod.html
> http://www.blazeking.com/
> http://www.vogelzang.com/woodstoves.htm This page has a pic of a double 
> barrel stove with the kit for sale.
> 
> Furnaces and boilers.
> http://www.woodmaster.com/
> 
> This page shows a wood furnace similar to the indirect burn design. 
> There is a page that describes the process with pics if I can find it. 
> http://www.vogelzang.com/Norseman1500.htm
> 
> Ah, finally! The wood gassification boiler! http://www.newhorizoncorp.com/
> 
> All round distributor.
> http://www.unclejoes.com/wood_heaters_for_less.htm
> 
> Good luck, good reading.
> 
> Frosty
> -------------------------------
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