[TheForge] Horizontal Band saw

Steve Smith sos at alum.mit.edu
Wed Feb 21 20:50:19 EST 2007


Here is an excellent start:
http://www.tinyisland.com/4x6bsFAQ.html

Steve

Washington, Aubrey O. wrote:
> I've had a HF 4X6 horizontal-vertical bandsaw for a couple of years now.  I have a problem with the blade jumping off the wheels.  This seems to be worse when I'm using it in the vertical position.  Over the weekend I was trying to split 3/8" square (for a Friedrich cross), and I never got more than 1/4" before the blade would jump off.  
>  
> Now this is the first band saw I've ever owned or used, so I don't know jack about how to adjust it.  I tried a new (not expensive) blade, but that didn't help.  Pretty frustrating.
>  
> Aubrey
> 
> ________________________________
> 
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net on behalf of Jerry Frost
> Sent: Wed 2/21/2007 2:33 PM
> To: Sponsored by ABANA
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Horizontal Band saw
> 
> 
> 
> I used a 4" x 6" no name horizontal vertical bandsaw
> for about 20 years till it just plain wouldn't track
> and couldn't be adjusted about. In all that time I
> replaced the roller guides once but the bearings in the
> blade wheels finally went 4-5 years ago. It cost $79.00
> in the late 70's or early 80's I don't remember little
> details that far back. <grin>
> 
> Now I have a Jet 7" x 12" horizontal vertical with
> coolant. Bought it for under a grand, just. Either work
> just fine though the Jet has more capacity and I expect
> it to last a little longer. Still if it falls short of
> the longevity of the closeout store el-cheapo bandsaw
> by a few years it'll still be worth more than it cost
> by many multiples.
> 
> I'm less impressed with the coolant especially cutting
> new steel, on rusty or dirty steel it helps by washing
> some of the dirt and grit off. A little wire brush
> action is a good solution you say and I say use the
> brush inside a piece of pipe and we'll talk. <grin>
> 
> The secrets are a solid machine with adjustable
> tracking, slow speed and a good blade. The blade is all
> important after the machine is squared up. The most
> important rule of thumb is the "three tooth rule" There
> should be three (3) teeth in the cut at all times.
> Fewer wears the blade quickly, often just stripping the
> teeth. More teeth will load up with cuttings, not only
> slowing the cutting down but generating excess heat
> which wears the blade out more quickly. The vari-tooth
> ( I think that's what they're called) work very well
> though you still need to make sure the coarse part of
> the blade isn't going to grab. At any rate you'll want
> to use Bi-metal blades in most situations. Some
> situations you'll want to keep cheap throw away blades
> around for are salvaged metal where you don't know the
> alloy and it's dirty, rusty and such.
> 
> Next in importance is feed speed, slower is almost
> always better though not universally. Some alloys work
> harden very quickly so it's important to carry as much
> heat off in the cuttings as possible, hogging the feed
> and living with slightly off cuts may be a viable
> alternative in these cases.
> 
> I really recommend a horizontal vertical bandsaw. Being
> able to use it in the vertical position in no way
> degrades it's performance as a cut off saw and being
> able to change plattens and cut curves, split stock,
> etc. is VERY handy.
> 
> Frosty
> -------------------------------
> If it ain't forged
> it ain't real.
> Wrought iron is.
> The FrostWorks
> 
> Meadow Lakes, AK.
> 
> http://www.artmetalradio.com/
> 
> From: "Lynn and Susan Lang" <langfarm at together.net>
> 
> 
>>Hello
>>
>>Need someone to tell me where to go.......To buy the
>>best power hacksaw
>>for my small operation; do I go with the Delta, Jet,
>>MSC or what?
>>
>>I am just one step above this being a hobby.
>>
>>Thank you
>>lynn
>>
>>
> 
> 
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