[TheForge] Horizontal Band saw

[Washington, Aubrey O.]

I've had a HF 4X6 horizontal-vertical bandsaw for a couple of years now.  I have a problem with the blade jumping off the wheels.  This seems to be worse when I'm using it in the vertical position.  Over the weekend I was trying to split 3/8" square (for a Friedrich cross), and I never got more than 1/4" before the blade would jump off.  
 
Now this is the first band saw I've ever owned or used, so I don't know jack about how to adjust it.  I tried a new (not expensive) blade, but that didn't help.  Pretty frustrating.
 
Aubrey

________________________________

From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net on behalf of Jerry Frost
Sent: Wed 2/21/2007 2:33 PM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Horizontal Band saw



I used a 4" x 6" no name horizontal vertical bandsaw
for about 20 years till it just plain wouldn't track
and couldn't be adjusted about. In all that time I
replaced the roller guides once but the bearings in the
blade wheels finally went 4-5 years ago. It cost $79.00
in the late 70's or early 80's I don't remember little
details that far back. <grin>

Now I have a Jet 7" x 12" horizontal vertical with
coolant. Bought it for under a grand, just. Either work
just fine though the Jet has more capacity and I expect
it to last a little longer. Still if it falls short of
the longevity of the closeout store el-cheapo bandsaw
by a few years it'll still be worth more than it cost
by many multiples.

I'm less impressed with the coolant especially cutting
new steel, on rusty or dirty steel it helps by washing
some of the dirt and grit off. A little wire brush
action is a good solution you say and I say use the
brush inside a piece of pipe and we'll talk. <grin>

The secrets are a solid machine with adjustable
tracking, slow speed and a good blade. The blade is all
important after the machine is squared up. The most
important rule of thumb is the "three tooth rule" There
should be three (3) teeth in the cut at all times.
Fewer wears the blade quickly, often just stripping the
teeth. More teeth will load up with cuttings, not only
slowing the cutting down but generating excess heat
which wears the blade out more quickly. The vari-tooth
( I think that's what they're called) work very well
though you still need to make sure the coarse part of
the blade isn't going to grab. At any rate you'll want
to use Bi-metal blades in most situations. Some
situations you'll want to keep cheap throw away blades
around for are salvaged metal where you don't know the
alloy and it's dirty, rusty and such.

Next in importance is feed speed, slower is almost
always better though not universally. Some alloys work
harden very quickly so it's important to carry as much
heat off in the cuttings as possible, hogging the feed
and living with slightly off cuts may be a viable
alternative in these cases.

I really recommend a horizontal vertical bandsaw. Being
able to use it in the vertical position in no way
degrades it's performance as a cut off saw and being
able to change plattens and cut curves, split stock,
etc. is VERY handy.

Frosty
-------------------------------
If it ain't forged
it ain't real.
Wrought iron is.
The FrostWorks

Meadow Lakes, AK.

http://www.artmetalradio.com/

From: "Lynn and Susan Lang" <langfarm at together.net>


> Hello
>
> Need someone to tell me where to go.......To buy the
> best power hacksaw
> for my small operation; do I go with the Delta, Jet,
> MSC or what?
>
> I am just one step above this being a hobby.
>
> Thank you
> lynn
>
>

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