[TheForge] Learn something new every day...

[Ron Childers]

Mark, I think the blade would dull rather quickly

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mark A. Pesetsky
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 12:23 PM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Learn something new every day...

Hmmmmmmm....What about a SAWZALL? I do have an air chisel 

Thanks Bruce
Mark

Mark,

I'm presuming the technique Andy describes is equivalent to cutting
glass or tile.  If so, the key is to make the thinnest, sharpest
possible "scratch"
on the surface (which may nonetheless go deep into the
surface) to maximize the forces at the scratch when you clobber the rail
(or glass or tile).

The angle grinder is a good notion, but I suggest you use a cut-off
blade (~1/16" thick) instead of a grinder blade, and before using it,
shape its blunt edge to a sharp edge by running it against something
hard or abrasive at about a 45degree angle.  Renew this edge as it
dulls.

If an angle like  45 degrees doesn't work well, then a true 90degree
edge might.  The idea is not to let the edge of the grinder round off.
A round cut would not induce the forces at the "scratch" that you need
to effect the break.

An alternative is to use an air chisel - a labor saving direct
modification of the original idea.  Use a very sharp chisel and keep it
sharp.

Let us know what you end up trying, and how it works.

Bruce
NJ

--- "Mark A. Pesetsky" <pesetsky at Princeton.EDU> wrote:

> I think I'll try using an angle grinder on edge to score...How deep? I

> have a section of rail that is probably 5-6'
> 
> 
> I was speaking with an old railroad retiree the other day. When he 
> started out, the method for cutting rails was to score them all the 
> way around with a large helved chisel and then smack the rail on the 
> side, resulting in a <poink>... one rail becomes two.
> 
> Thought that was pretty cool.
> 
> 	-Andy
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