[TheForge] Learn something new every day...

Bruce Freeman freemab222 at yahoo.com
Wed Dec 19 11:03:54 EST 2007


Mark,

I'm presuming the technique Andy describes is
equivalent to cutting glass or tile.  If so, the key
is to make the thinnest, sharpest possible "scratch"
on the surface (which may nonetheless go deep into the
surface) to maximize the forces at the scratch when
you clobber the rail (or glass or tile).

The angle grinder is a good notion, but I suggest you
use a cut-off blade (~1/16" thick) instead of a
grinder blade, and before using it, shape its blunt
edge to a sharp edge by running it against something
hard or abrasive at about a 45degree angle.  Renew
this edge as it dulls.

If an angle like  45 degrees doesn't work well, then a
true 90degree edge might.  The idea is not to let the
edge of the grinder round off.  A round cut would not
induce the forces at the "scratch" that you need to
effect the break.

An alternative is to use an air chisel - a labor
saving direct modification of the original idea.  Use
a very sharp chisel and keep it sharp.

Let us know what you end up trying, and how it works.

Bruce
NJ

--- "Mark A. Pesetsky" <pesetsky at Princeton.EDU> wrote:

> I think I'll try using an angle grinder on edge to
> score...How deep? I
> have a section of rail that is probably 5-6' 
> 
> 
> I was speaking with an old railroad retiree the
> other day. When he
> started out, the method for cutting rails was to
> score them all the way
> around with a large helved chisel and then smack the
> rail on the side,
> resulting in a <poink>... one rail becomes two.
> 
> Thought that was pretty cool.
> 
> 	-Andy
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