[TheForge] Re: TheForge Digest, Vol 47, Issue 40

[DoveKnives]

  If this note is late or redundant please forgive since only some of the 
mail seems to get through.

  I was interested in the questions about using band and hacksaw blades for 
damascus.  We make over 100Lbs of damascus in our shop during a year.  The 
thickest metal we use is .05 and can be as thin as .003, we find it is 
extremely easy to dry weld if we use clean stock.  I have had no problem 
welding the banding with the paint on and prefere it to have  alittle oil on 
it.  This makes it fall into the Hydrocarbon welding that has been discussed 
here if I remember correctly( I read several forums over a week, so if it 
wasn't here, please forgive).

  The main thing that makes our thin stock weld with out edge burning and 
spreading of the layers is that we place a .5 inch thick piece of mild steel 
on the top and bottom of the stack.  This keeps the billet in a tight bundle 
so that O2 cannot get in and the layers do not spread as frequently happens 
due to the outer layers getting hot quicker than the core.  We also place a 
thin piece of stainless steel heat treating foil between the .5 outer layers 
(called pressure plates) and the damascus billet to keep the  pressure 
plates from welding to the billet.  To make the stainless will stick to the 
billet if it is not oxidized, we achieve this by heating the foil w/an 
oxidizing flame of a oxy/acetylene torch.  This way after we set the weld in 
the hammer or the press we can pop the tack welds on the end ot the billet 
and remove the plates to forge the billet out.  

  Perhaps I should mention that we only assemble the billets by placing them 
in a hydrolic press and compressing them as an assembly and then running a 
vertical bead down the four corners of the billet.  This is the only welding 
done on the billets.  If you have any doubt about your billet, dip it in 
kerosene then pop it into the fire.  Our billets are of two sizes , 2"x4" 
and 4"x4".  Using this size billets require a soak at welding temp for about 
four minutes.  Now we need to mention that we weld at a much lower temp than 
many folks do.  We have our forges adjusted to run at 1990 to 2000 degrees.  
At these temps you do not ever see any sparking from the steel.  If you do, 
you are burning important components out of your steel.  

  BTW, the steels we use are 1095 & 15n20.  These give us great etch 
definition and no worries of carbon migration. Our steel source is Admiral 
Steel for the 1095 and Udaholm (spelling) Steel.  Both steels are purchased 
in roll form.  

  Sorry for being soooo long winded:)

Steve
doveknives.com



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