[TheForge] woodworking tools

[Bruce Freeman]

Bob,

I don't remember where I got the book, but I find this
bookmark in it, probably from the seller:  
The Tool Chest
45 Emerson Plaza East
Emerson, NJ
(201) 261-8665
IIRC, this fellow came to one of our tool swaps a
couple years back and I bought a few books from him.

More info:  
c. 1997
ISBN 0-9643999-8-9

Published in the US by:
Cambium Press
POBox 909
Bethel CT  06801
(202) 426-6481

Distributed in the US by:
The Lyons Press
31 W. 21st St.
New York, NY  10010
(212) 620.9580

I understand clearly what you mean now, and agree  you
could do it more easily using a "washer".  I think I'd
be inclined to make my own "washer" of thick stock,
though. 

Another alternative is to neck fuller the piece as if
to start the tenon, then to weld a ring onto it like
for making a bolt head.  With a little practice,
that's an easy weld to make.  Since it would be
sitting in a fullered groove, it wouldn't go anywhere
even if the weld weren't perfect. 

Another way yet is to go with the washer, but to braze
it in place during the last heat treating operation. 

Bruce

--- Bob Smolen <boka at mwt.net> wrote:

> Bruce,
> Thanks for the comments. Where did you pick up the
> woodworking tool book?
> I may not be using"  bolster "correctly. I recalled
> more details from the
> Underhill program after I wrote the note last night.
> Imagine the square tang is made. Another neck is
> fullered say 1/2 in. below
> the tang shoulder. The tang is inserted in the
> pritchel or in a heading
> plate so the blade end is vertical and in the up
> position. A butcher or set
> hammer is used to catch the bottom of the
> shoulder(which now has an edge due
> to the fullering) and is hammered out as it is
> worked from all four sides.
> Done correctly, this will give a wider shoulder than
> what the Larson book
> method would do. The Larson method is probably more
> than adequate. A washer
> could be driven over the tang against the shoulder
> to give more bearing
> surface and would approximate the method I
> described, and is a little less
> work. I would just like to be able to replicate what
> the Williamsburg smiths
> made look easy.
> Bob
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Bruce Freeman" <freemab222 at yahoo.com>
> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 8:44 AM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] woodworking tools
> 
> 
> > Bob,
> >
> > I'm just a hack smith with a good reference
> library.
> > I've never made a tool anything like you describe,
> but
> > I have a couple books which may address the
> question.
> >
> > The more specific of the two is "Tool Making for
> > Woodworkers" by Ray Larsen.  He shows how to make
> a
> > mortising chisel, but his procedure doesn't seem
> to
> > match what you describe.
> >
> > In essence, what he does is to forge a bar square
> with
> > a step to the tang from all four sides - like a
> square
> > tenon.  He starts with round stock and fullers off
> an
> > inch a the end which he draws out square.  He then
> > jumps the bar in a "square guage" (equivalent to
> using
> > a monkey tool on a tenon) to square the shoulder.
> >
> > The rest of the procedure is forging out the blade
> end
> > to shape, etc.
> >
> > Alexander Weygers, in the compilation "The
> Complete
> > Modern Blacksmith," also describes the making of
> some
> > woodworkers' chisels, though not specifically a
> > mortising chisel.  Again, I don't find any
> procedure
> > that seems to match what you describe.
> >
> > Part of my uncertainty is your use of the term
> > "bolster".  I know that term only in reference to
> a
> > tool to lift a piece off the anvil - such as a
> plate
> > with holes in it to receive the slug from a
> punching
> > operation.  It sounds to me that you're using the
> term
> > in a completely different sense that I don't
> understand.
> >
> >
> >
>
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