[TheForge] Hammer heat treating/stainless coloration

[David E. Smucker]

Most old ball pien hammers are 1060 or so, some maybe a 1045.  It is 
unlikely that hammers will be alloy material.  So you have a medium carbon 
plain steel -- most would say is water hardening.  But -- if your friend is 
making thin edged tools then you can get by with a oil quench if you only 
heat the cutting surface and area directly behind it for heat treating. 
Slowly heat the cutting area to just above the critical temperature -- just 
above non-magnetic and quench in oil.  Keep the tool in motion while in the 
oil.  Remove wipe clean and right away put in an oven at 375 to 400 F for 1 
hour.  This is the tempering step.  I use the kitchen oven -- having cleaned 
the tool of oil with a little 409 or some such cleaner.  Others use a 
toaster oven they pick up for $ 5.00 at the local thrift shop.  (keeps the 
wife happy)

If you want it a little harder you can water quench -- but you are more 
likely to get a crack.  Still I have harden many wood working tools using 
water or brine.  But you must temper -- don't try to get by without it or 
the tool will be very brittle.  I teach a class at the John C. Campbell Folk 
School on making woodworking tools.  Out of 12 students making edged tools 
from 1095 maybe 1 or 2 will have cracking problems when quenching in 
water -- it most cases it is because they heated too fast and or heat the 
tool too hot and then quenched.

If you want to practice on something first, get some W1 or water hardening 
drill rod and make a scriber and / or center punch.  Follow the above heat 
treating and when it works for you do the same thing with the wood working 
tools you have a bunch of time into.

Dave Smucker
Brasstown, NC




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert J Hill" <wskewinu at mac.com>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 9:15 AM
Subject: [TheForge] Hammer heat treating/stainless coloration


> Hello all.
> I have a few questions.  One of my coworkers is making some wood carving 
> tools from ball pien hammers.  I also have a cross pien that tends to be 
> softer than I would like.  What would be a good method for heat treating 
> these tools?
> My other question is in regards to heat coloration from welding on 
> stainless.  Scrubbing the colors off with Scotch-Brite pads and wire 
> brushes only goes so far.  Any recommendations for an easier way?
> Thanks,
> Rob Hill
>
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