[TheForge] Was: Finishes for food contact items Now and other things!

[Lynn Emrich]

Mike and all,
I had read that linseed oil in it's raw state was very
slow drying and one should use 'boiled' linseed oil.
The boiling was actually the addition of dryers.
Comment?
This lead me to question what was happening when I
used my favorite finish on non food contact items. By
accident I discovered that when quenching oil was
allowed to burn off the steel it left a finish that I
thought looked good. Now I use old motor oil and dip
items with a high black heat and allow it to burn off.
The finish has held up for a couple of years outdoors
even here in south eastern Florida.
The question is what remains on the steel that retards
rust?
BTW, don't breath the smoke. You don't know what may
be in the used oil.
Lynn
 

--- Mike Spencer <mspencer at tallships.ca> wrote:

> Ah, "mixture".  Tung and linseed oils are, in the
> conventional
> terminology, drying oils.  They have, relative to
> other common oils, a
> high iodine number and, as Bruce says, a high degree
> of
> "unsaturation". i.e. they have multiple double bonds
> between carbon
> atoms.  It's those double bonds that are responsible
> for the oxidative
> (exposed to air) or catalyzed (cobalt or other dryer
> added)
> polymerization usually referred to as "drying".  The
> more of them and
> (IIRC) the closer they are to each other, the better
> "drying".


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