[TheForge] Air Hammer Anvil ?
Peter Fels And Phoebe Palmer
artgawk at thegrid.net
Sat Nov 18 04:11:58 EST 2006
Mike, a fair rule of thumb is that your anvil should be at least
15 times the falling weight of the hammer.
With that much power it's possible to make your ruskie anvil fly
like a tiddley-wink across the shop...forget about using the horn
or tail under power.
Be careful of letting your ram bottom-out.
Look at the design of sow blocks on old air hammers, dovetails
and tapers and all. Easier but less reliable is a bolt down
design that will accept dies...which can also be bolt down.
Sunny and mild on the central left coast....pf
Madmike wrote:
> Hi everybody,
> As I don't want to take the risk of braking the stone crusher tooth (thank
> you Jerry for the advice) I was wondering what to put under the ram to top
> the cast iron counterweight (I didn't find yet any trailer or truck that can
> carry a 2T weight).
> I have a 175lbs anvil stamped 'made in USSR' that would love to work a
> little but I'm a bit affraid of some kind of horn breaking under the
> 165~220lbs ram hits, do you think it can do it or do I still need to wander
> in the junkyards ?
> The anvil is exactly the same than Dan Brock's that you can see here.
> http://www.appaltree.net/rusty/association/dan_brock.htm
> If I can follow exactly the design I plan for this hammer I will have a
> 16~20 inches maximum clearance between the dies when the ram iddles and so I
> could use the horn of the anvil that would be at least at 20 inches from the
> top die (enough to use a hand hammer).
> Well I think that's all for now, thank you all for your help !
> Friendly Madmike.
>
More information about the TheForge
mailing list