[TheForge] anvil repair

Tue May 30 12:36:57 EDT 2006

I once saw Frank Turley reforge a horn of an wrought iron anvil.  This
was at Peters Valley, NJ, a few years ago.  I think it might have been
Eric Cuper's (http://cuperstudios.com/) anvil - but I could be confusing
that.

Bruce
NJ

>>> Peter Fels And Phoebe Palmer <artgawk at thegrid.net> 5/27/2006
9:22:31 PM >>>
I guess it would come down to a question of just how much of the 
horn needed to be dressed.
On most old anvils, the horn is wrought and fairly soft. If just 
the very tip needs to be heated and reshaped, it can probably be 
done before the face loses it's temper, using wet rags instead of 
temple sticks..,..PF

Chuck Robinson wrote:
> After Rockwell testing the face of many anvils I found that the
optimal 
> hardness for an anvil face is about RC 50. That's what I how I heat 
> treat my anvils.
> Harder faces tend to chip easier and softer faces tend to ding too
easily.
> If you try to rebuild the horn, it will be nearly impossible to get
it  
> hot enough to work on, without destroying the face heat treatment.
> If you want to try it, get a tempil stick around 300 F and put test 
> marks on the top and sides of the face.
> When the marks start to melt, cease and desist immediately, or you
will 
> draw the face hardness, and the anvil will magically transform itself

> into a heavy door stop.
> 
> My recommendation is if the anvil still has a decent hammer rebound,

> work with it for a while to see how the defects inhibit your work.
> I've seen some really beautiful work done on marginal anvils by
talented 
> smith's.
> A good friend recently sent me some photo's of Vietnamese smiths 
> cranking out loads of tools using an anvil that looked like a section
of 
> 3" shafting buried in the shop floor.
> Chuck
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Fels And Phoebe Palmer" 
> <artgawk at thegrid.net>
> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 9:32 PM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] ranite hardfacing rods
> 
> 
>> Howdy again Bob:
>> I've seen several previously welded anvil edges where the whole 
>> surrounding HAZ has cracked off in a chunk(s)leaving a coarse
grained 
>> crater. Ugly, and each successive repair is apt to get larger.
>> It's nice to think that only hot iron will see the face of an anvil

>> over it's lifetime...but that's not the reality. I, for one, miss
now 
>> and then, unfortunately. And i work softer metals on the anvil cold

>> sometimes as well as doing some cold straightening. Further, higher

>> alloy steels and even common stainless can be pretty stiff at 
>> temperature and beat up an anvil ( think about forging H13). And, 
>> inevitably, it'll have to survive the attentions of some clown and a

>> few wanna-bees between blacksmiths.
>> Much as i like the stuff, 7018 won't do that. Anvil makers go to a
lot 
>> of trouble to get that "glass hard" face for a reason.
>> Now JB weld..that's the ticket!....Pete F
>>
>> Dan Tull wrote:
>>
>>> Then why not mig it?
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: <schade at acegroup.cc>
>>> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>; 
>>> <munlaw2 at hcsmail.com>
>>> Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 4:27 PM
>>> Subject: Re: [TheForge] ranite hardfacing rods
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> On May 24, 2006, at 9:05 AM, Ron Childers wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I think of a gash as a small torch cut in the face- A friend has

>>>>> just such
>>>>> an anvil for which I'm trying to work out a trade. It works just

>>>>> fine as is
>>>>> and I've used it in demos, but the torch scar killed its value.
He 
>>>>> bought it
>>>>> dirt cheap. The Lincoln dealer said 7018 would work fine and the

>>>>> weld would
>>>>> be close to the same color as the steel face. What do you think 
>>>>> would happen
>>>>> to the bead if I hammer on metal at forging temp? Fall out like a

>>>>> broken
>>>>> filling in a tooth?....
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I don't see any reason why 7018 would "fall out". The worst that 
>>>> might happen is that the 7018 would not be as hard as the original

>>>> anvil face. That shouldn't be a problem if you are forging hot 
>>>> metal. If the repair does mush out a little over 20 years the next

>>>> guy can redo it.
>>>>
>>>> Bob
>>>>
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>>>
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> 
> 
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