[TheForge] ranite hardfacing rods

Tue May 23 19:15:45 EDT 2006

I would file off the mushroom area and use it as is. If I needed a  
sharper horn I would make a tool for the hardy hole or vice. I had a  
Mouse Hole anvil that was out of square too. They are forged anvils so  
I guess close was pretty good. If you are compulsive you could lay it  
on it's face and mill the bottom parallel to the face. If you are  
normal you could shim it up and use as is.

Bob
_______________

On May 23, 2006, at 4:51 PM, Washington, Aubrey O. wrote:

> I suppose that would be an option, but I don't think I'll do any  
> welding on this anvil.
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net on behalf of Dan Tull
> Sent: Tue 5/23/2006 4:47 PM
> To: Sponsored by ABANA
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] ranite hardfacing rods
>
>
>
> I have miged a bolt to the wrought then built up around to a needle  
> point.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Washington, Aubrey O." <awashington at ou.edu>
> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 3:52 PM
> Subject: RE: [TheForge] ranite hardfacing rods
>
>
> I just picked up a 105# Mouse Hole that is in reasonable shape for its  
> age.
> But, the tip of the horn is mushroomed a bit and there are some rather  
> deep
> cuts (~1/8") on the horn.  I can work around the cuts, but my question  
> is
> about the mushroomed tip.  Has any of you ever tried reforging the  
> wrought
> iron tip of a horn?  Is this a practical thing to try?  What are the
> hazards?  I wouldn't be messing with the steel face at all (which is in
> reasonably good shape).
>
> The really odd thing about this anvil is that the face is not parallel  
> to
> the base so that when the anvil is sitting on a level surface, the  
> horn-end
> of the face is a good 1/4 to 1/2 inch lower than the heal.  It seems  
> to have
> been forged that was since there is no obvious abuse of the anvil that  
> would
> have caused this.
>
> Aubrey
> Rock Creek Forge
> Norman, OK
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net on behalf of Ron Childers
> Sent: Tue 5/23/2006 1:49 PM
> To: 'Sponsored by ABANA'
> Subject: RE: [TheForge] ranite hardfacing rods
>
>
>
> That's why I made a 3/8" lilt for the hardy hole on my Hay Budden
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dan Tull
> Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 2:13 PM
> To: Sponsored by ABANA
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] ranite hardfacing rods
>
> I sold a 180# P/W  and kept a 179# P/W because the 180 was too flat.
> It was easier to straighten stock on the sway.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <schade at acegroup.cc>
> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 12:13 PM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] ranite hardfacing rods
>
>
>>
>> On May 23, 2006, at 10:44 AM, Luke Thomson wrote:
>>
>>> After reading your reviews I am doubting that my anvil needs to be
>>> refaced, just repaired. I plan on getting some sticks or maybe wire  
>>> if
>>> I can today. I've posted some pictures on photoaccess under tools and
>>> tooling ( it wouldn't let me create a new album...)  My pictures show
>>> the gashes but I was unable to show the sway very well.
>>> Does anyone know any reason why not to run tig beads across the  
>>> anvil?
>>> Seems like that would both reduce the amount of grinding and, more
>>> importantly, give me some more practice with TIG.
>>> Thanks for all your help,
>>> Luke
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> couldn't find your pictures. Some sway isn't really that big a  
>> problem.
>> My advice would be to get something you can use as an anvil. track,
>> large object etc. After working a while you will know better what your
>> requirements are. don't get bogged down in having a perfect anvil.
>>
>> Bob
>>
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>
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