[TheForge] Re: Furnace cement: Pro or con?

Mike Porter michael.a.porter at comcast.net
Thu May 4 13:21:21 EDT 2006



-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Smith
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 5:27 PM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: Kaowool


The bottom line with furnace cement is its content. As with other refractory
products, furnace cements rated for various temperatures are available;
temperature rating usually depending directly on the amount of silica binder
in the mixture. Look at the product's temperature rating before deciding
what brand to buy and you'll probably do alright. But remember, that the
rating you need is for something that will stand up under the flame's
temperature, not just the general temperature needed for the work you
contemplate.

Once again, I'd like to remind everyone that both bubble alumina and Mizzou
3000 degree F castable are available in small amounts at reasonable prices
from Ellis Custom Knifeworks: http://www.elliscustomknifeworks.com/ (with
whom I have no affiliation of any kind). However, they are the best source I
know for good quality refractory in minor amounts, and they have a worked
out a logical shipping plan. What more can you ask? 

Yes, there are furnace cements rated at 3000 F, but that doesn't mean you'll
find one locally. If you're using one of my tube burner designs, 3000 F is a
minimum temperature rating in mini furnaces (they simply don't have the
space available for the flame's heat to disperse before contacting a
refractory surface. Even the five gallon propane cylinder forge depends on
the kiln shelf to take a high velocity tube burner's initial withering
blast.
[Mike Porter]

I use chimney cement that is rated for the fire box of
a chimney or a wood burning stove.

Also you may want to check this web site out:

http://www.hhhh.org/~joeboy/past_projects/coffee_can_foundry/my_coffee_can_f
oundry.html

or

http://www.concreteproductsweb.com/

Here are some specs and if you are in the U.K. these
folks have it:

http://www.fluesystems.com/sundries/info/fire_cement.htm

I had somebody in Ontario that use chimney cement,
added a little water and worked it into a mold. He was
making a HT oven and it worked!

Jerry

--- "Kenny O." <phat at cavenet.com> wrote:

> 
> 
> >>doing any forge welding, then light bricks are the
> way to go. If you are
> >>doing forge welding, then I think the best
> solution is to put a thick layer
> >>    
> >>
> >>of castable refractory (1/2"--1" thick) over the
> floor of your forge. 
> >>
> >>.............
> >>
> >>Jeff Polaski
> >>    
> >>
> 
> 
> Is there a a homemade recipe for a castable
> refractory?
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