[TheForge] File Handles

[xlch58 at swbell.net]

I use big brass compression fittings as a ferrule for my shop made 
wooden handles. If it is a gift, I will put back in the lathe and take 
the corners off so they cant tell.    Years ago I would make them the 
way my grandad did by drilling a small hole perpendicular to the file 
handle at the end and insert a small wire in the hole, pulling the wire 
tight around the handle until I came to another drilled hole an inch up 
the handle that I tucked the wire into.   Then I would solder the ends 
of the wire.  Looked real neat, but too much work.    I also keep a 
bucket of worn out files to be turned into something else.   On several 
occasions (particularily with big files) after having made the pilot 
hole, I have found a file with the same tang in the bucket, heated it 
orange in the forge and burned the hole in the new handle, stopping just 
short of completey seating it.  I let it cool and then put the real  
file in and bang it home.  This avoids the whole issue of a rocking 
handle since the pilot hole is not any thicker than the tang.  It is 
usually not a problem on small files bit for big ones I find it worth 
the effort.  I haven't made near as many file handles since I lucked 
onto a bucket full of wooden Scruzon file handles at a garage sale.     
I am sure the plastic handles are a wonder, just like fiberglass makes a 
wonderful hammer handle, but there is something comforting about 
reaching for and grabbing a sixteen inch single cut file with a wooden 
handle that has that unique lustre that can only be achieved with a 
polish made from the sweat and oils of your own hand.

Charles

Albin Drzewianowski wrote:

> I turn my own file handles on a wood lathe and use 3/4" or 1" long 
> pieces of copper pipe as ferrules.  I have not had any problem with 
> handles splitting or getting loose.
>
> One thing that has helped is to use a "REPAIRMAN'S TAPER REAMER 
> W/T-HANDLE" to shape the hole where the file tang goes into the 
> handle.  I first drill a hole the size of end diameter of the file's 
> tang and then use the taper reamer to open the hole up to a little 
> less than the widest diameter of the tang.  Since the hole is now 
> tapered, it seems to hold the tang better, with less likelihood of 
> splitting.
>
> The reamer and the file tang do not have the exact same taper, but it 
> seems to be close enough to give a good grip on the tang.
>
> Since I am using the reamer by hand into wood, I bought an inexpensive 
> import from either MSC or ENCO when I saw it on sale.
>
> D-ski
> Westminster, MD
>
>