[TheForge] Forge Welding question

[Dan Brewer]

I was able to attend an SCA event that had several blacksmiths in
attendance.  Each on of the forges were different. On had kitty litter in
the bottom to contain the flux and easy removal of it. Another had
refractory brick the other a sheet of stainless and another a kiln shelf.

All of them seemed happy with their choices for flooring material in their
forge.

Dan in Auburn  

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Demon Buddha
Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2006 4:40 AM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Forge Welding question

Well, that may be worse for you.  With a coal forge,  have found that 
the contaminants are more easily eliminated because you're tossing the 
rotten coke and starting afresh.  In a gas forge, the contaminants can 
get into the refractory and then you may have more of a problem, though 
I'm not sure just how much more.

I would imagine that if you have contaminated flux making it to the 
bottom of the forge, you will have real problems.  I may be wrong on 
this point, but think about it: at temperature the flux will dissolve 
some small amount of the metal, along with its oxides (which may be the 
true source of the trouble).  If it drips onto the refractory bottom, 
well, many of us know too well the corrosive nature of flux at 
temperature.  Now the contaminants have etched their way into the very 
fabric of your forge.  I can envision this situation as being a real 
problem.  Moral of this story is to NEVER EVER EVER mix ferrous and 
non-ferrous work in a given forge where you intend on doing welding. 
Build/buy a separate apparatus for your mokume work.  I also believe it 
behooves us to line the bottoms of our forges with something to 
intercept flux.  A nice 1/8" sheet of stainless steel might do.  I've 
always wanted to try niobium, but it's a bit pricey for that sort of 
thing, but it has a melting point of some 4400*F.  It is a reactive 
metal, though, and I wonder if it will go up like Ti if pushed too hard. 
  Kiln shelving is another alternative.

Let me not be alarmist, but at least you should inspect the bottom of 
your forge for signs of flux and consider that if you find any, you may 
have to replace the refractory layer.

	Good luck.

Chris Kilpatrick wrote:
> Strickland propane.
> 
> 
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Demon Buddha" <osan at netlabs.net>
>>To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>>Subject: Re: [TheForge] Forge Welding question
>>Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2006 21:29:56 -0400
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Chris Kilpatrick wrote:
>>
>>>hi Folks,
>>>     I have been having a little trouble forge welding recently.  
>>>I found a pool of nickel in my forge (from quarter mokume), could 
>>>that be interfering with my welds?  I found some of the nickel 
>>>had adhered to my billet.
>>>
>>
>>	Yeah, stuff like that contaminates the forge.  Is it a gas forge?
Coal?
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is I who formed the blacksmith, 
> who fans the flame into a fire and
> fashions a weapon fit for it's work.
> 
> 
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