[TheForge] Forge Lining

[Bruce Freeman]

Excess stuff like this is great for iron-in-the-hat contributions.
NJBA has made multiple gas forges in two workshops over the past few
years.  I'm replying to your questions [in square brackets] below.
Bruce
NJ

>>> lukeirathomson at gmail.com 7/20/2006 3:36:52 PM >>>
My friend's uncle is a refractory man, i don't know exactly what his
position is but he's some sort of contractor for refractory and fire
insulating work. That's insignificant though, the cool part is I get
free
refractories!!!

Here's What I Got:
1. 1" thick Kao-wool, durablanket or some brand of refractory blanket
2. ***Naphos-85   i have a couple gallons and with it Matt (refractory
hook-up) said "holds brick together up to .25"  thick" and "add water
to get
consistency of morter/slurry"
3. ***Ply Brico "trawelable* plastic .5" to 3" thick" and "fills cracks
&
voids etc. where there isn't a brick" *Real Sticky*
4. bag of AP Green Castable refractory
                         ***He also said that both the 'ply brico' and
'naphos' are 85% alumina where the standard is 50%

Here is what I want:
A forge... I cut the ends of a propane tank and burned the paint off
for a
forge shell. I'm not neccessarily set on this but it seems like the
right
size for my second forge, ( just today another friends dad gave me
their old
forge to use while I build my own). The hope is that with those
refractories
and one of mike porter's burners I'll have a forge pretty soon. I've
already
forked out the big bucks and bought most of the parts for the .5 &
.75"
burner's in his book.

[In our last gas-forge workshop, we rolled the shell from sheet steel. 
Another possibility is to cut the end off a 5-gallon solvent container. 
Chemical and pharmaceutical companies may generate waste containers of
this sort - metal lined with plastic - and you can pick them up for
free.]

now for the actual questions:
1. I've read about Jerry using a couple layers of Kaowool protected by
refractory cement and rather liked the idea, but would like to hear
other suggestions considering the materials I have.

[You want 8-pound-per-cubic-foot mineral wool in 1" or 2" thicknesses. 
You want at least 2" of this stuff in the walls of your forge.  This is
easily done with the 2" thick stuff.  With the 1" thick stuff, use two
SEPARATE layers:  Install the outer layer, then the inner layer.  Don't
try to do it with one length.  You need to abut the end for the stuff to
stay in place.

2. If I decide to go with the two layers of kao-wool how thick should I
lay
on the refrectory cement and which one should I use? should i do like
.75"
on the top and sides and 1.5 or so inches on the bottom?

[You don't need or want much refractory cement, if any at all.  You
need some sturdy refractory on the bottom for the work to lay on.   I
like using a few chips of firebrick surrounded by mineral wool, and then
a shelf made of castable refractory resting on top of these.  The only
reason for putting any anywhere else is fear of mineral fiber.  A couple
years ago I submitted an opinion that this fiber is not as big a problem
as is often thought.  It is not asbestos.  (Even all asbestos is not
harmful.)   However, it's your health, so if you want to coat the fiber,
do what you like.  A thin layer will probably suffice, provided it's
mechanically stable.]

3. Is there a website or anywhere in particular where I should buy a
regulator, or will most places pretty much be the same: central
welding
supply, hardware store, etc.

[Get hose and regulator for propane use.  For extra super-duper safety,
you might want to use metal tubing as the line approaches the forge. 
Rubber hose might be burnt through by a blast from the forge.  Keep the
forge blast away from the hose and you won't have any problem with
rubber.]


Any other suggestions?

[Via the NJBA website, you can find more information on the safe use of
gas forges.  Worth a read.]

Thanks always for your advice,
Luke
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