[TheForge] inspiration

[Jerry Frost]

You're very welcome Jesse. You may think we're a REALLY 
helpful bunch when in actuality we just love talking. . 
. about this stuff. <grin> So thank YOU for asking. 
<grin>

You're planning on trying what I did on the 
Ressurection River? I don't recommend it, especially 
living in a neighborhood. While it worked as a field 
expedient it was a LONG way from ideal, it worked but 
is neither comfortable to be close to, nor fuel 
efficient.

My #1 recommendation is:

Build a propane forge and learn fire management and 
charcoal making later. It's all too easy to get overly 
involved in making tools and equipment and never 
getting to the goal. This is basically the same if 
cheaper than waiting till you've purchased every tool 
you need. Using a propane forge will set a lot easier 
with the local authorities and neighbors too.

If you want to try the lashup forge I described before 
there are a few things you need to know.

Rocks and fire are a BAD combination. Water trapped in 
crevises or hygroscopic moisture can cause rocks to 
explode when heated. Use bricks, firebricks are best 
but even red bricks are orders of magnitude safer than 
rocks. The forge I made on the river had no rocks in 
contact with the fire, it was all covered with sand 
mixed with just enough river silt to keep it held 
together.

Spend $20-25 and just buy a sack of fire clay. There 
are a number of recipes for home made refractories and 
this one seems okay. Mix it at about 2pts clay to 1pt 
sand to 1/4pt portland cement. Mix the clay and cement 
dry, then add the dampened sand gradually. Using a 
mixer is okay but a mud box and hoe is better. You 
don't want the mixture wet or it'll shrink check (crack 
like a lake bed in summer) as it dries. You want it 
moist enough you can squeeze it into a clean breaking 
lump in your hand that isn't sticky. This is known as a 
"tempered" mixture and if you've ever done any green 
sand casting you know exactly the right moisture 
content.

Where this mix is going to be in direct contact with 
the forge fire you want to ram it in with a mallet and 
burnish it with a smooth piece of wood or burlap. 
Burnishing actually seems to make it more durable 
though I don't know why. Probably it has to do with 
reducing the surface imperfections, spot heat and weak 
points. Anyway, it helps make it last longer. I use 
this mix to line barrel stoves too and it lasts WAY 
longer than the barrel. <grin> If you're ramming up a 
large area, "score" the refractory so it'll check in a 
controlled manner, same as expansion joints in 
concrete.

Pick up a hair drier from Sally Anne or other second 
hand store. What I like better though is a "Coleman 
Inflatall". These are 12v blowers intended for blowing 
up rafts, air mattresses, etc. they don't make high 
pressure but put out a lot of air. They come in 
different sizes and I've gotten good use in the field 
with them and a piece of pipe.

----------------------------------------

Okay, here's my recommendation for a 55gl drum charcoal 
forge. Find a brake drum in the 9-10" range, big truck 
drums are just too big, especially for a starter forge. 
Keep both ends intact on the drum or at least one. Lay 
the brake drum on the end of the 55gl. drum and mark it 
our with soapstone, chalk, etc. and cut it out. You 
want the hole large enough the brake drum will slip in 
but catch on the rim. Think of it like making a 
flowerpot holder and you have it right. A cast iron 
hibache works really well for this too.

Next you'll want to cut an opening in the side of the 
55gl. drum so you can get at the interior. I recommend 
it be around 12" sq or larger but not so large as it 
weakens the barrel. The edges will likely be sharp so 
either bead them over or glue split hose on them for 
safety's sake.

If the bottom of the barrel is intact you can use it 
for a number of things. Charcoal storage is one though 
there are some problems like if a burning cinder gets 
past the ash bucket and lights your store of fuel on 
fire. <grin> So, putting 10gl of water in it for your 
slack tub is my favorite recommendation. There are lots 
of other possibilities though, shelves and tool racks 
being just a couple, so use your imagination. It's a 
very useful space and my main reason for recommending 
keeping the barrel ends intact.

Next you'll need to do some scrounging or shopping and 
find some pipe and fittings, 2" black pipe is ideal but 
not mandatory, much larger is a pain though as is less 
than 1". You'll only need 12-14" of pipe, a pipe "T", a 
plug and a flange of some description.

Method #1. Make up the pipe "T" and flange, weld or 
have it welded to the bottom of the brake drum being 
sure to block the lug holes. Cut a hole in the side of 
the 55gl.drum at the appropriate height, insert the 
length of pipe and screw it to the "T". Put a pipe plug 
in the bottom of the "T", hang a metal bucket under it 
to catch cinders, etc. and that's that part.

Method #2. Make up the pipe "T" and flange and pack it 
into the bottom of the drum with furnace cement, 
available in pint, quart and larger containers, a quart 
should be plenty. Leave the main hole open. . . Yes? 
<grin> Hook it up as in method #1.

You'll notice immediately how the rim of the brake drum 
is higher than the surface of the barrel end. Mix up a 
fire clay mortar mixture using these ratios 2pts sand, 
1/2pt fire clay and 1pt portland cement. Mix stiff but 
not as a tempered mix you don't need to ram this in to 
prevent checking, it isn't particularly important if it 
does, this is basically a fireproof table not a fire 
pot. Trowel it in, smooth it and score it for checking. 
Something you can do before troweling on the mix is run 
a number of sheet metal screws up through the barrel 
end so the mortar has something to grip. Make sure the 
screws are shorter than the depth of the mortar.

Once the mortar, refractory, furnace cement, etc. is 
dried you'll need to cure them properly. If all you did 
was mix up the mortar for the table top curing is easy. 
Just spread a single layer of charcoal briquettes over 
it and light it up.

Real refractory will take more heat for a longer time 
so once it's been burning for an hour or so you should 
add more fuel, turn on your blower and cover it to help 
retain and concentrate the heat. Same story for the 
furnace cement though it'll have directions on the can.

You don't need to use a 55gl drum either, I made my 
first charcoal forge from an old washing machine. If 
it'd been a front loader it would've been handier but 
it worked well as it was.

Anyway, don't get locked into "A" way of doing things, 
there's almost always flex. Remembering the goal is 
more important than remembering directions. Remember a 
forge is literally a fire place so anything that will 
hold your fire in a way you need or like is the perfect 
forge.

There's little fundamental difference between a coal 
and charcoal forge so don't worry about it, it'll work.

LIke I say I recommend propane forges to learn on and I 
like them for general forging as well. Fuel is 
available anywhere or almost, the fire dept likes them 
much better than coal or charcoal as do the building 
code and zoning nazis. More importantly it keeps you on 
the better side of your neighbors who probably won't 
turn you in. (Do NOT seek permission to do this! 
Foregivness is easy, permission is near impossible) 
Another good way to keep on your neighbor's good side 
is to make them simple little things like coat hooks, 
weeders, etc. don't get in the habit of making them big 
items like say fireplace tools or they'll want you to 
work for free.

If you really want to use charcoal we can discuss 
making it in another post.

We can also get into a good discussion about propane 
forges.

Frosty
-------------------------------
If it ain't forged
it ain't real.
Wrought iron is.
The FrostWorks

Meadow Lakes, AK.

http://www.artmetalradio.com/

From: "Jesse Seipel" <jsguardian at hotmail.com>



> All I can say is. . . wow.  At this point I am 
> extremely greatful for the helpful instructions, and 
> inspired.  I have plans to take a 50gal drum (from a 
> local scrap yard) with a large hole on one side a a 
> small hole near the bottom, attach a pipe (from the 
> same scrap yard) for air flow, surround it all with 
> local river rock and a basic dirt/clay morter, toss 
> in some charcoal or other burnable fule, and use some 
> more if that local scrap for stock, and simply . . . 
> get it hot and hit it. :)  Hopefully that scrap yard 
> has a suitable anvil, and my wife doesnt catch me 
> using her hair dryer.  Only one thing is preventing 
> me...90-100 degree clear sunny days.  I am not gonna 
> work next to a "hotter then the blazes of hell" fire 
> in weather that makes me sweat just looking out the 
> window.  Wish me luck, and if anyone has some 
> pointers on improving my 1st fogr design, I 
> appreciate the advice.
>
> ~Jesse
>
>
>
>