[TheForge] RE: [TheForge ]Hydrochloric acid

Sat Jul 8 06:25:05 EDT 2006

	Thanks Rick - It's just over the years I've always Tig welded all the stuff
for resteraunt kitchens, pool accessories, and marine fixtures that
customers have wanted built.  It sounds like a neat thing to try as the temp
of tig always distorts the heck out of stainless and I'm glad I asked as I'd
of used an open flame not copper soldering irons.

	I've picked up a few old antique soldering irons ( some copper - some
steel) - I'd always given some thought to assembling flowers with
soldering - but now the option of soldering stainless seems like an
intersting color contrast. You must be able to solder copper to stainless
easy enough - so that could get interesting with silver stems, turning
copper leaves, etc.

Ralph

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 9:38 PM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] RE: [TheForge ]Hydrochloric acid

Always used 50/50 lead/tin solder for the kitchen shop.  You would think
lead and hospital kitchen would not go together, but we had no problems.  Of
course, you must remember that the last time I worked in that was in 1975 or
so.  Therefore LOTS has probably changed.  But we used hydrochloric and cut
it for the soldering.  Then it was called muriatic.  Had my own area in the
custom layout department there.   Soldering was easy as I remember, we used
coppers and had a small forge to heat them.  I still have several.  Each
month or 2 we would get a new bag of the asbestos mix refractory we used and
mix it up (with a couple teaspoons of water) for a new liner in the forge
(firepot).  We didn't all keel over or anything like that.  It was called
work, and we just did it.  Wasn't till a few years ago that I realized what
we had been dealing with was probably not really 'good for me'.

If stainless is clean, it is dead simple to solder.  It just flows right on
if you have a hot copper.  You know that stainless steel is excellent at
transferring heat.  Polishing is the rough job as far as I am concerned.
Still to this day, I have never been directly involved in polishing.  And
don't want to.

Rick Crawford at Rafter Lazy C
  Home of Smoky Forge and Lem the Wonder Mule
   In the middle of Northern Illinois

    http://www.smokyforge.com
     rick at smokyforge.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph Sproul" <brhlbsmt at mcttelecom.com>
To: "'Sponsored by ABANA'" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 5:56 PM
Subject: RE: [TheForge] RE: [TheForge ]Hydrochloric acid

> Hi Rick, That's one thing I've never done, is solder stainless.  Is the
> trick to etch the stainless with acid then solder?  Are we talking a lead
> solder? Or the tin/antimony, or silver solder?
>
> Ralph
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rick
> Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 1:41 PM
> To: munlaw2 at hcsmail.com; Sponsored by ABANA
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] RE: [TheForge ]Hydrochloric acid
>
> Unless I mis-remember, Muriatic is cut hydrochloric.  You take a small
> jar,
> (like a baby food jar) and put hydrochloric in it and cut some small
> strips
> of mild steel and drop them in.  When the acid stops eating the steel, it
> is
>
> muriatic.  This is how we used to make our cleaning acid for soldering
> when
> I worked in the kitchen shop.  They made kitchens for hospitals and
> restaurants.  All stainless steel work and lots of soldering.
>
> Rick Crawford at Rafter Lazy C
>  Home of Smoky Forge and Lem the Wonder Mule
>   In the middle of Northern Illinois
>
>    http://www.smokyforge.com
>     rick at smokyforge.com
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ron Childers" <munlaw2 at hcsmail.com>
> To: "'Sponsored by ABANA'" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 12:21 PM
> Subject: [TheForge] RE: [TheForge ]Hydrochloric acid
>
>
> Bruce,
>
> I doubt hydrochloric will etch ss effectively. I think in ss & cs Damascus
> the ss is essentially unaffected. Isn't it the about the same as muriatic
> acid? Nitric is some nasty stuff. Dangerous; spatters terribly, will rust
> every thing in the shop and a drop will go to the bone. Muriatic is much
> safer and more forgiving of carelessness, incapacity or neglect. Many
> terrorists are killed, blinded or maimed using acids in homemade
> explosives.
>
> Ron
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Freeman
> Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 12:39 PM
> To: theforge at mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Finding Nitric
>
> Oh, yeah.  I should have added that using aqua regia on stainless is
> probably not necessary.  Hydrochloric alone should work.
>
> For carbon, that's another thing.  The nitric might be necessary.
>
> And another caveat:  The waste from nitric acid remains dangerous.
> Remember that nitrates are used in explosives.  So you should be real
> careful how you dispose of this stuff, or a waste container may explode
> on you.  I've seen it happen.
>
> Bruce
> NJ
>
>>>> FREEMAB at pt.fdah.com 7/7/2006 10:51:33 AM >>>
> You should have taken the "OT" off the subject line.  Some folks use
> that to fillter out the BS.
>
> See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aqua_regia for info on aqua regia.
>
> In principle, you could mix muriatic acid with sodium nitrate to get
> aqua regia.  I haven't tried this, so don't know whether it would work
> in practice.
>
> Be VERY careful handling strong acids.  We all know to add acid to
> water, not water to acid, because the heat developed can bump (boil)
> the
> solution, and this is less likely and less dangerous if the solution
> is
> principally water.  What do you do when mixing two acids?  DO IT VERY
> SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY.  Wear goggles AND a full face shield, protective
> clothing AND a plastic apron (belt and suspenders).
>
> Bruce
> NJ
>
>>>> theatre_weapons at yahoo.com 7/7/2006 8:39:56 AM >>>
> Not to hijack this thread but I need some Nitric Acid.
> I know there's a place in Miami (I live in West Palm
> Beach and am too cheap to pay the high shipping) that
> sells to schools but Google can't help find it.
>
> I want the Nitric Acid to make 'Aqua Regia' to engrave
> my knives. A teacher gave me a small amount at the end
> of the school year last year. It works great for
> engraving my signature on carbon or stainless.
>
> I made a resist using bees wax and Asphultium
> (apparently an old paint additive), sign with a blunt
> brass rod, a few drops made for a great signature.
>
> I've been working with a sculptor and when I used it
> for him the acid had lost it's power. Sorry for the
> rambling post but I thought you would like to know why
> I want the nitric.
>
> I'm also going to Atlanta next week so if you know of
> a supplier in that area let me know.
>
> Thanks for your help,
> Lynn
>
>
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