[TheForge] Sow blocks. Why?

[Rick Korinek]

Rodger and Andy,

Thanks for your responses.  So you are saying there are at least 2 good
reasons for not exceeding the die spacing:  Wrecking the hammer the
possibility of serious bodily harm.  Points well taken.

On another point, I wanted to report how much harder my treadle hammer hits
since I mounted it onto a steel base plate.  It seems much more solid and
quiet all around compared to lagging it into the concrete floor as I have
done in the past.  The new shop has a heated floor so I am reluctant to
drill into it.  The plate is about 2x3' and 1 1/8" thick.  I also used 3/8"
rubber padding, like you find on the floors of weight rooms, underneath to
keep the hammer from moving.  The increased solidity is an unintended
consequence that I am very pleased with.

-Rick

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Vida
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 2:10 AM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Sow blocks. Why?



Rick Korinek wrote:

> My question to members of theForge is:  Is this kind of work the kind of
> thing the removable sow block was designed?  Perhaps the question might
be:
> What is the purpose or reason for the manufacturer to modify the original
> hammer design to add the removable sow block?  Probably would have been a
> good question for Fred Kaylor, alas.

	Sow blocks are there as a maintenance item.  They take a great 
pounding, and in some shops they see lots of die changes.  Using a 
separate sow block allows the use of a different material into which the 
bottom die is mounted.  Constant changing of dies causes wear.  Better 
to rebuild or replace a worn out 500# block of steel than to try to 
recut a dovetail in a 15000# casting.  Those gradual tapers can generate 
an awful lot of force and can split even those large hammer frames if 
someone gets too religious with a sledge.

> 
> If this approach is possible, there is a whole other level of use for this
> type of hammer than I have been aware of.  Until now, I have been thinking
> that the hammer was limited to the use of low-profile tooling between flat
> dies.

	Well, I think you may be going somewhere you don't want to go.  I 
cannot recall seeing tall tooling for use under the hammer.  All the top 
tools I am familiar with are very squat in relation to their width, and 
for a very good reason.  Get a tall tool cocked wrong between the dies 
and serious trouble may ensue.  Even if you're driving at only 100 bpm, 
things happen really fast.  The tool gets a little cockeyed, you 
comensate too much the other way, now it's really cockeyed, and all of a 
sudden you have a 200 mph, 3 1/2# bullet flying across the shop... or 
maybe through your face.  These hammers were not designed for work like 
that and using them that way is not sound.  The die clearances are 
designed as they are for very definite reasons and should not be messed 
with.  If you want to use taller top tooling, get a kickass hammer or 
build one like it, which is to say with similar valving.  Single, well 
controlled strokes are a way different circumstance from rapid 
repetitious ones.

	Be careful and don't injure yourself.  Not even blacksmithing is
worth 
that.

_______________________________________________
Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
theforge mail list group photo site is
http://www.photoaccess.com
Login:  blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
password:  anvil
___________