[TheForge] Chip Bed Forge

[Dan Brewer]

So what type of media do you suggest for the ceramic media.  At the temps
you are talking about most ceramics melt.  I guess balls made of mulite
would work.  Are you thinking that the fire box be rounded or rectangular in
shape?  
Dan

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike Porter
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 10:14 AM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Chip Bed Forge

Chris K,
You are not understanding that the forge has a separate fire box below the 
ceramic media, with a separating layer of cut kiln shelves turned on edge, 
and acting as a support grate. The grate completely separates the flame area

from the ceramic media--giving as much space as you need for the flame to 
filter through the media, and for buoyancy to more than overcome back 
pressure. It also allows the "flame box" to be dual walled, with a row of 
holes in the inner walls above the ceramic grate, and two outer holes kept 
low and placed on either side of the burner; outer holes to be closed with 
movable chokes until the fire box heats up. Thus, instead of throwing away 
excess energy, while complicating the job of insulating the forge, most of 
it is recycled. Also, the superheated air does not impact the burner, as 
schemes for mixing heated air in the burner always do. Instead, the burner 
is actually cooled somewhat by incoming air.

Now you also know that it can be called a recuperative forge, and why any 
burner will likely work as well as any other burner in it (secondary flames 
becoming a non-issue in this design). So, do my statements about sometimes 
removing the media and using the "forge" in various other configurations 
make more sense? I also recommend a lower layer of 1 1/2" refractory balls 
for thermal loading and an upper layer of semi-hollow clay balls for 
insulation and ease of parts movement. Construction details like installing 
burner collars, and how to handle perlite insulation or insulating bricks 
are already covered pretty thoroughly in Gas Burners, in the forge cart 
chapter. All you would do is put side walls on the cart bed, build a dual 
wall chamber with a top grate, and move the burner position from bottom to 
end. For that matter, the burner doesn't have to be moved, it would just be 
a more even heat that way. So, people who have already built the forge cart 
don't have very much left to do.

For those who haven't built the cart already, I'd recommend building the 
chip forge as a separate heating unit that can be used with other 
appliances, like kilns for instance (a kiln on a cart could start getting 
pretty tall :)

Mike P.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Kilpatrick" <crimsonkil at lycos.com>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 8:01 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Chip Bed Forge


Normally aspirated with the clay media interfering with the flame?  Maybe I 
am not understanding how this works, but I imagine a flame coming up through

the chips which offer back pressure and make a coned flame impossible.

What am I not understanding?

Chris K

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Porter" <michael.a.porter at comcast.net>
> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Chip Bed Forge
> Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 18:45:26 -0800
>
>
> Chris K,
> It can run fan blown or naturally aspirated. Either way, it doesn't
> make smoke.
> Mike P.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Kilpatrick" 
> <crimsonkil at lycos.com>
> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 3:33 PM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Chip Bed Forge
>
>
> Mike,
>      I am assuming forced air on these, yes?
>
> -Chris K.
>
> p.s.:  How does this differ from my forge that glows and heats
> through convection, conduction and radiation?
>
>
>
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