[TheForge] Aluminum annealing temp?

[Bruce Freeman]

What neither Lynn nor Larry clarified is that you
don't HAVE to forge aluminum cold.  When a pine stick
"writes" on hot aluminum like a black crayon, you can
forge the metal hot.  Your option.
Bruce
NJ
--- Lynn Emrich <theatre_weapons at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Jeff,
> I'm sure that someone much more knowledgeable will
> speak up, but until then:
> Heat aluminum until a pine stick (paint stirrer)
> makes
> a mark. It's just a little short of the silver
> puddle
> that shows up in the bottom of the forge when you
> heat
> it a little too much. For annealing cool it quickly,
> like you would copper or brass.
> The map gas torch will be more efficient if you use
> it
> in the one brick or the bean can forge. Then you can
> work it hot.
> Just my thoughts,
> Lynn
> 
> --- Barking Crow <mail at barkingcrow.com> wrote:
> 
> > I've been playing around with forging some
> trashpile
> > aluminum rods about 3/8 
> > ".  I forge it cold until I think it may break
> then
> > stop and heat it with my 
> > little mapp gas torch until I think it might be
> > annealed and then let it 
> > cool and start again.  Having fun punched and
> > drifted a nice little hole.  I 
> > started out to make a wedge of aluminum to put in
> a
> > collection of wedges of 
> > different size, shape, and material that I plan to
> > give my daughter's 
> > boyfriend as a gift.  Then I was having fun and
> kept
> > on playing for awhile. 
> > My question is how hot do I have to get the
> aluminum
> > (a guess since I don't 
> > really know what the alloy is) before letting it
> > cool?  I've been heating 
> > the piece until it is just barely red in the dark.
> 
> > Is there a better way?
> > 
> > Thanks,  Jeff in Tallahassee 
> 
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