[TheForge] Needful things...

[Washington, Aubrey O.]

I use cheap corn oil for quenching because it's less toxic and smell like French fries.  ;-)

________________________________

From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net on behalf of Ron Childers
Sent: Mon 12/18/2006 9:48 AM
To: 'Sponsored by ABANA'
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Needful things...



Phillip,

Imho, heat in a gas forge until all shadows disappear and it is the same all
the way through @ non magnetic. Then dump in vermiculite- It will stay hot
for 2 days and should be annealed by then. Medium carbon is something like
1040 or 4140 and is pretty forgiving on heat treating. It should drill with
any decent bit.

In our tire hammer workshop we heated 4140 to non magnetic and normalized to
weld on the flanges to make our power hammer dies. We then heated to non
magnetic and quenched in oil. We drew the temper @ 400 degrees F.

I think I remembered that correctly. Steve, you were there with me; anything
you care to add?

Ron Childers

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike Linn
Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 9:58 AM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Needful things...

At 11:15 PM 12/17/2006, you wrote:
>I need a few items, and some information, and if it's smithing, I
>kinda think I know who to ask, so guys, help me out please ;-)
>
>I need a piece of square or rectangular bar stock, maybe 2-3 inches
>long. It should be about medium carbon, the dimensions can be 2" X 3"
>in any direction, as long as it's no more or no less than 2-3 inches,
>and it must be square or rectangular. Also, it MUST be scrap, rather
>than new steel. What do you guys suggest? NOT stainless- simple high
>carbon.

Im a little confused as to why it MUST be scrap iron as it will be really
difficult to know what material you have. I would go to something like the
metals supermarket
http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/  and pick it up from them, they deal in
drops and might have what you need.


>I will need to drill this metal, hopefully in an annealed state, with
>a hole about 3/8" in diameter, about an inch deep. What do you guys
>suggest for:
>
>Type of drill bit
>Type of lubricant
>Annealing method

I would try drilling it with a TiN drill, using tapping fluid as a lube.
Annealing may or may not be needed depending on what you get. If it does
need annealing, then heat it to non magnetic and drop it in a pile of
vermiculite. If vermiculite is not available bury in you ash pile and let
it sit for a day or so.



>And, finally, I'll need to harden the face once I've shaped it. What
>method do you suggest?

Het to non magnetic and swish the face around in transmission fluid or
motor oil. I use Transmission fluid because it has a higher ignition point
and doesn't smoke as bad as motor oil.



>Second. I'm wanting to make a cut-off hardy (although it won't go into
>an anvil) from a piece of car spring I intend to abuse into shape.
>
>How best to anneal it?
>How best to harden the edge when I'm finished abusing it?

Anneal and harden the same as above. Stay away from water.....


>Anybody got any suggestions for high temp clay pipe, maybe 8" to 12"
>long, 1 1/2-2" internal diameter? thickness of walls is not a
>consideration, but a scrounged piece is preferable.

Make one from refractory cement, using 2 pipes as a mold...

mike


>--
>Saint Phlip
>
>Heat it up
>Hit it hard
>Repent as necessary.
>
>Put not your trust in princes, nor in the son of man, in whom there is no
>help.
>
>Psalm 146
>King James Bible
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>


            Mike Linn
      Artist Blacksmith
          McCalla, AL
        AFC Webmaster
http://afc.abana-chapter.com <http://afc.abana-chapter.com/> 

______________________________________________________________________

"Many of life's failures are people who did not realize how
   close they were to success when they gave up. "
   ~ Thomas A. Edison
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Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
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