[TheForge] Re: Bricks- Light vs heavy

[Darrell]

Instead of trying to anneal, why not just draw the temper enough to drill?

Darrell

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gladish Family" <gladish at cnw.com>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2006 7:14 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: Bricks- Light vs heavy


> This is interesting, because I've made a few pretty nice knives with L6 
> and 1095, basically a forged sandwich with the bread being L6 and the 
> baloney 1095. The big problem I have is drilling rivet holes through the 
> L6. IS there a way to anneal it enough that you can drill it? Nothing 
> I've tried so far gets it soft enough to drill, and punching is an 
> inferior method for this, I think.
> 
> Andy G.
> 
> 
> Lynn Emrich wrote:
> 
>>I jumped on the slow cooling bricks because I have had
>>trouble annealing thin stock in the past. I did
>>everything I've always done. As example I would
>>normalize, heat to nonmagnetic + some and air cool
>>more than once, than heat to critical bury in pearlite
>>for cooling. The thin stock, in this case some power
>>hack saw blades a customer wanted a knife made of, and
>>when drilling had problems. 
>>I haven't had thin stock to anneal lately so it hasn't
>>been a problem but the bricks seems to be better than
>>some of my past techniques. Heating to critical and
>>drooping to the bottom of my Don Fogg type forge and
>>turning off the gas. Not correct but quick and easy.
>>Lynn
>>
>>
>>--- Bill Roberts <robertsb at pig.net> wrote:
>>
>>  
>>
> 
> 
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