[TheForge] Re: Bricks- Light vs heavy

[Gladish Family]

This is interesting, because I've made a few pretty nice knives with L6 
and 1095, basically a forged sandwich with the bread being L6 and the 
baloney 1095. The big problem I have is drilling rivet holes through the 
L6. IS there a way to anneal it enough that you can drill it? Nothing 
I've tried so far gets it soft enough to drill, and punching is an 
inferior method for this, I think.

Andy G.


Lynn Emrich wrote:

>I jumped on the slow cooling bricks because I have had
>trouble annealing thin stock in the past. I did
>everything I've always done. As example I would
>normalize, heat to nonmagnetic + some and air cool
>more than once, than heat to critical bury in pearlite
>for cooling. The thin stock, in this case some power
>hack saw blades a customer wanted a knife made of, and
>when drilling had problems. 
>I haven't had thin stock to anneal lately so it hasn't
>been a problem but the bricks seems to be better than
>some of my past techniques. Heating to critical and
>drooping to the bottom of my Don Fogg type forge and
>turning off the gas. Not correct but quick and easy.
>Lynn
>
>
>--- Bill Roberts <robertsb at pig.net> wrote:
>
>  
>