[TheForge] Re: Kaowool

[Jeffrey Polaski]

All the insulating bricks I bought and used cracked and are now in
chunks... I thought it was just because I bought the cheap ones. I
didn't realize all insulating bricks had that problem. 

Well, I think I'd still recommend using the light-weight "insulating"
bricks... but I think it's better to always use a hard lining over them,
like kiln shelf or castable refractory.


Jeff Polaski
Research and Graduate Studies Webmaster
University of California, Irvine
http://www.rgs.uci.edu/
949.824.6363

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike Porter
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 5:30 PM
To: 'Sponsored by ABANA'
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Re: Kaowool

I can't really agree with Jeffrey about light bricks. I only find them
appropriate for very limited uses where they act as a buffer layer
between
low temperature (ex. perlite) or contracting (ex. constantly overheated
Kaowool) insulation, and a tough hot face material like kiln shelving.
What
I don't like about insulating firebrick is that is simply too weak
mechanically speaking. My feelings about using it are ambivalent at
best.
Mikey

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Demon Buddha
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 4:15 PM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: Kaowool



Jeffrey Polaski wrote:

> Yes, I don't doubt that refractory has its place. I just don't know
(or
> even know *of*) any blacksmiths who keep their forge running
> continuously for days/weeks at a time. I don't know, but maybe
> glassblowers do? 

	Large glass operations often run them for months.  It is cheaper
to
run 
the furnace 24x7 than to shut it down.  With facilities that large, 
shutting down also runs risks of failures due to contraction and
expansion.

> I should have added that lighter bricks will get eaten away by welding
> flux much more easily, so heavier bricks still have their place. If
> you're *not* doing any forge welding, then light bricks are the way to
> go. If you are doing forge welding, then I think the best solution is
to
> put a thick layer of castable refractory (1/2"--1" thick) over the
floor
> of your forge. Or, if you can find it, a piece of ceramic shelf
> material.

	Or a piece of 1/8" stainless sheet on the floor.  If you can get

scrap, one of the super alloys such as Haynes 230 would be even better, 
but only as acrap.  Last time I priced 230, about ten or more years ago,

1/8 plate was about $125/sq-ft.  I'd try stainless first.
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