[TheForge] Re: Kaowool

[Grover Richardson]

Understand.  I think.  Rollable metal, flue material, yes.  When rolled and
screwed together it makes a reasonably rigid cylinder.  I have made roughly
5 over the years, still have 2 that I am using.  No problems so far.

Between the rolled up kaowool and the screws, the assembly does very nice.
Now, if you push in on the side, it will give a bit and go slightly oval.
But when sitting on a metal frame, it is more than rigid enough for the
purposes required.



>*>-----Original Message-----
>*>From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net 
>*>[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Freeman
>*>Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:28 AM
>*>To: theforge at mailman.qth.net
>*>Subject: RE: [TheForge] Re: Kaowool
>*>
>*>
>*>If by A/C duct, you mean flexible, rollable, metal, like 
>*>used for flues, then I disagree.  
>*>
>*>The shell of a forge insulated with Kaowool should be rigid. 
>*> Not HEAVY, mind you, just rigid.
>*>
>*>Bruce
>*>NJ
>*>
>*>>>> apeshet at sbcglobal.net 4/14/2006 2:36:22 PM >>>
>*>Great idea about the air-conditioning duct!  I rescued two 
>*>commercial propane bottles from a curb-side give-away for 
>*>forge bodies, but haven't done anything with them.  However, 
>*>I do have a 12" diameter stove pipe that I bought for a 
>*>forge hood - I might just use that.
>*>
>*>-Alix
>*>
>*>-----Original Message-----
>*>From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net 
>*>[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
>*>Grover Richardson
>*>Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 11:30 AM
>*>To: 'Sponsored by ABANA'
>*>Subject: RE: [TheForge] Re: Kaowool
>*>
>*>
>*>I use air conditioning duct.  Sheet metal screws.  Carry it 
>*>around in a sheetrock bucket between uses.
>*>
>*>Cut the 12" diameter duct about 12" long.  
>*>Fold over the edges so nothing sharp to cut me or visitors. 
>*>Pre-drill the edge to be rolled clearance hole for a sheet 
>*>metal screw. Pre-drill the 1" diameter hole for the tuyere.  
>*>Do this between two sheets of plywood.  The plywood will 
>*>hold it down and keep the drill bit from snagging. Lay the 
>*>kaowool out flat on top of the duct. Roll it up. Use a 
>*>bungee or two to hold it together. Drill the holes through 
>*>the other side and sheet metal screw the beast together.  I 
>*>use 5-6. Remove the bungee(s). Use a sharp small knife to 
>*>trim the kaowool out of the tuyere area.
>*>
>*>I have pix if anyone wants them of how I do this.
>*>
>*>
>*>>*>-----Original Message-----
>*>>*>From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>*>>*>[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Frost
>*>>*>Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 2:03 PM
>*>>*>To: Sponsored by ABANA
>*>>*>Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: Kaowool
>*>>*>
>*>>*>
>*>>*>Good Plan Ike:
>*>>*>
>*>>*>What I feel is the most universal mistake when making a 
>*>>*>forge is the weight 
>*>>*>of the shell, it only has to be strong enough to support 
>*>>*>itself and the 
>*>>*>work, 1/4" plate is WAY too heavy.
>*>>*>
>*>>*>I favor SS stove pipe for a pipe forge shell. You can 
>*>either buy the
>*>
>*>>*>diameter and length you want outright or put different
>*>>*>diameters together 
>*>>*>for almost any size. Lengths come in 12" increments and 
>*>>*>tinsnips will make 
>*>>*>it perfect.
>*>>*>
>*>>*>I also favor double lining a forge with a hard inner liner 
>*>>*>for druability 
>*>>*>and an insulating outer liner for efficiency.
>*>>*>
>*>>*>A.P. Green is out of business.
>*>>*>
>*>>*>Frosty
>*>>*>-------------------------------
>*>>*>If it ain't forged
>*>>*>it ain't real.
>*>>*>Wrought iron is.
>*>>*>The FrostWorks
>*>>*>
>*>>*>Meadow Lakes, AK.
>*>>*>
>*>>*>http://www.artmetalradio.com/ 
>*>>*>
>*>>*>
>*>>*>
>*>>*>From: <LrdThorolf at aol.com>
>*>>*>
>*>>*>
>*>>*>> Thanks all for all the great help. I have an old sword  
>*>>*>smith forge. 
>*>>*>> 24"
>*>>*>> long
>*>>*>> with a 13' dia. The thing takes to people to move and  is 
>*>>*>made out of 1/4 
>*>>*>> in
>*>>*>> plate including legs and the square bottom of the forge.  
>*>>*>It is a 2 burner
>*>>*>> atmospheric. I have fire bricks in the bottom and with 
>*>>*>doors on  both end. 
>*>>*>> I got
>*>>*>> it used over 15 years ago. I think it is about time about  
>*>>*>time that I 
>*>>*>> build a
>*>>*>> new one.  Think I will use stainless steel  and go smaller 
>*>>*>diameter this 
>*>>*>> time
>*>>*>> but keep my longer length and a lot  lighter.
>*>>*>> Ike
>*>>*>> Pan's Forge
>*>>*>
>*>>*>_______________________________________________
>*>>*>Manage membership or unsubscribe at: 
>*>>*>>*>http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge 
>*>>*>theforge 
>*>>*>mail list group photo site is http://www.photoaccess.com 
>*>>*>Login:  blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com 
>*>>*>password:  anvil
>*>>*>___________
>*>>*>
>*>>*>
>*>
>*>_______________________________________________
>*>Manage membership or unsubscribe at: 
>*>>*>http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge 
>*>theforge 
>*>mail list group photo site is http://www.photoaccess.com 
>*>Login:  blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com 
>*>password:  anvil
>*>___________
>*>
>*>
>*>
>*>
>*>_______________________________________________
>*>Manage membership or unsubscribe at: 
>*>>*>http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge 
>*>theforge 
>*>mail list group photo site is http://www.photoaccess.com 
>*>Login:  blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com 
>*>password:  anvil
>*>___________
>*>
>*>
>*>_______________________________________________
>*>Manage membership or unsubscribe at: 
>*>>*>http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
>*>theforge 
>*>mail list group photo site is http://www.photoaccess.com
>*>Login:  blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
>*>password:  anvil
>*>___________
>*>
>*>