[TheForge] Re: Kaowool

[Mike Porter]

Well said Jerry:

As to AP Green products, in business or out, their products will still be
obtainable somewhere; here is a good starting point for anyone's search:

ANH Refractories Company: corporate headquarters at Cherrington Corporate
Center, 400 Fairway Dr., Moon Township, PA 15108 Tel: 412-375-6600 Home
page: http://www.hwr.com/ This is a consortium of several companies that
sell famous brand names: A.P. Green, North American Refractories Company,
and Harbison-Walker are all ANH companies.
Mikey


-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Frost
Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2006 9:17 AM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: Kaowool

I should've added a caveat to my stovepipe suggestion and that is you're 
abilities and tools to work light ga. SS or mild steel. There's nothing 
wrong with using plain old steel stovepipe either, just don't use galvy.

A forge doesn't need to be welded together, SS pop rivets, sheet metal 
screws and nuts & bolts work just fine. If on the other hand you want it 
welded and either aren't up to, or aren't equipped for, welding 28ga SS or 
22ga (heavy duty!) mild steel stovepipe, propane or freon tanks are free for

the diplomatic scrounging.

Another source are water well tanks and even water heaters but a lot depends

on how large a forge you want. Before I used I water heater I'd use a 15gl 
grease barrel or even a cut down 55gl drum. There are lots of things that'll

make a fine forge shell. The big thing being no need to make them from 1/4" 
steel!

Heck as a lesson for Richard I spent about 10 minutes making a propane forge

from hardware cloth and Kaowool. I had the burner already of course, it 
takes me a good 15 mins to make a burner. I don't recommend using Kaowool 
open air as it was in the screen forge, it was just an example to Richard 
that he did NOT have to have everything JUST PERFECT to have a perfectly 
effective forge.

If flux erosion is an issue, use a high phosphate refractory, end of 
problem. My little double lined propane forge is a good 10 yrs old and is 
literally glazed with borax/borate flux and there is zero erosion. You'll 
have to do a little hunting as the refractory I used is no longer made but 
it's out there.

Frosty
-------------------------------
If it ain't forged
it ain't real.
Wrought iron is.
The FrostWorks

Meadow Lakes, AK.

http://www.artmetalradio.com/

From: "Mike Porter" <michael.a.porter at comcast.net>


> For my money, Jerry is right about the forge shells. I only recommend
> something as heavy as the propane tanks for forge shells because they are
> free if you hunt around a little (old propane cylinders are constantly 
> being
> accepted for a $10 charge by U-Haul when new cylinders are sold. U-Haul is
> then happy to let people take the empties off their hands for nothing).
> Also, the shape and heavier wall thickness compared to stove pipe, etc.
> Gives them the ability to survive the accidents normal in an average shop.
> Non-refillable Freon cylinders (about one-half the propane cylinder's
> weight) can also be had for nothing, but should be scrubbed out before any
> hot work is performed on them.
> Mikey
>


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