[TheForge] Re: Kaowool

[Alix Peshette]

Great idea about the air-conditioning duct!  I rescued two commercial
propane bottles from a curb-side give-away for forge bodies, but haven't
done anything with them.  However, I do have a 12" diameter stove pipe
that I bought for a forge hood - I might just use that.

-Alix

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Grover Richardson
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 11:30 AM
To: 'Sponsored by ABANA'
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Re: Kaowool


I use air conditioning duct.  Sheet metal screws.  Carry it around in a
sheetrock bucket between uses.

Cut the 12" diameter duct about 12" long.  
Fold over the edges so nothing sharp to cut me or visitors. Pre-drill
the edge to be rolled clearance hole for a sheet metal screw. Pre-drill
the 1" diameter hole for the tuyere.  Do this between two sheets of
plywood.  The plywood will hold it down and keep the drill bit from
snagging. Lay the kaowool out flat on top of the duct. Roll it up. Use a
bungee or two to hold it together. Drill the holes through the other
side and sheet metal screw the beast together.  I use 5-6. Remove the
bungee(s). Use a sharp small knife to trim the kaowool out of the tuyere
area.

I have pix if anyone wants them of how I do this.


>*>-----Original Message-----
>*>From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
>*>[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Frost
>*>Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 2:03 PM
>*>To: Sponsored by ABANA
>*>Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: Kaowool
>*>
>*>
>*>Good Plan Ike:
>*>
>*>What I feel is the most universal mistake when making a 
>*>forge is the weight 
>*>of the shell, it only has to be strong enough to support 
>*>itself and the 
>*>work, 1/4" plate is WAY too heavy.
>*>
>*>I favor SS stove pipe for a pipe forge shell. You can either buy the 
>*>diameter and length you want outright or put different 
>*>diameters together 
>*>for almost any size. Lengths come in 12" increments and 
>*>tinsnips will make 
>*>it perfect.
>*>
>*>I also favor double lining a forge with a hard inner liner 
>*>for druability 
>*>and an insulating outer liner for efficiency.
>*>
>*>A.P. Green is out of business.
>*>
>*>Frosty
>*>-------------------------------
>*>If it ain't forged
>*>it ain't real.
>*>Wrought iron is.
>*>The FrostWorks
>*>
>*>Meadow Lakes, AK.
>*>
>*>http://www.artmetalradio.com/
>*>
>*>
>*>
>*>From: <LrdThorolf at aol.com>
>*>
>*>
>*>> Thanks all for all the great help. I have an old sword  
>*>smith forge. 
>*>> 24"
>*>> long
>*>> with a 13' dia. The thing takes to people to move and  is 
>*>made out of 1/4 
>*>> in
>*>> plate including legs and the square bottom of the forge.  
>*>It is a 2 burner
>*>> atmospheric. I have fire bricks in the bottom and with 
>*>doors on  both end. 
>*>> I got
>*>> it used over 15 years ago. I think it is about time about  
>*>time that I 
>*>> build a
>*>> new one.  Think I will use stainless steel  and go smaller 
>*>diameter this 
>*>> time
>*>> but keep my longer length and a lot  lighter.
>*>> Ike
>*>> Pan's Forge
>*>
>*>_______________________________________________
>*>Manage membership or unsubscribe at: 
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>*>___________
>*>
>*>

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