[TheForge] Bandsaw welder

[Ralph Sproul]

Steve, Thanks for taking the time to write this description.  I've always
wanted  a Do-all, but have ended with an old craftsman style blade welder
from the 30's that came with the Walker-Turner saw.

This Do-all system sounds nice.

Ralph

----- Original Message -----
From: <doveknives at aol.com>
To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Monday, May 09, 2005 7:36 PM
Subject: [TheForge] Bandsaw welder


> I have read the tread on band saw welding.  I have a machine made by
Do-all.  I had it for a long time with out making it work , one day a friend
came by and saw the machine commenting that he had one that worked great and
offered to show me how.  You all have the basics down, but, I notice that
the problem that I had is the same as I had.  I didn't know that the long
red(on my machine) in the center of the machine just below the saw clamps,
and once I had the butt ends of  of the saw blade butted up against each
other and square, you depress the long red handle which presses the blade
ends together and applies the electricity which is much higher current than
the power allows more current through than the black "anneal" button.  Once
the ends are welded you move the blade out to so the teeth are just out of
the clamps and anneal. Next you have to grind the welds down, that's what
the wheel is for, use the top of the wheel to grind the inside of the blade
and the open side of
>   the bottom of the wheel to grind the outside of the blade.  Right above
the grinding wheel there is a funny little block with a slot in it.  This is
for passing the weld through to verify that you have ground off enough to
let the blade pass through the guide rollers.  Then it is back to the anneal
stage to draw a temper color to sky blue.  When done this way I have not had
blades break.  BTW my friend worked for Do-All welding their blades for
them.  THe only problem I had to work with was setting the temp knob to the
right setting for the 1/2" blades that I use.  Now I have a pencil line
drawn at the places to most effectively weld 1/2" as well as 1/4".  Practice
a little with old blades to get the hang of it before using new blade stock.
Feel free to contact me if I can help.
>
> Trusting HIM,
> Steve Rollert
> keenedgeknives.com
> doveknives.com
>
>
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