[TheForge] Re: brill dit stock (grrr)

[Justin Fellenz]

Just came back from the pool store with a fresh bottle of sodium
bisulfate. Gonna try it now. Wish me luck.

Roger, thanks for posting the fix. And Charles, if this works, beers on
me.

JRF

--- xlch58 at swbell.net wrote:

> There is an old dodge for aluminum only.   Basically there are acids 
> that will dissolve iron/steel and not touch aluminum.    I am not
> near 
> my files right now, but believe ordinary battery acid will work.   I 
> have tried this once with complete success.   It takes a while.   
> Warming the acid works.  If you don't know the cautions that apply to
> 
> acid, don't do it.   I have also heard that an alum solution made
> with 
> the alum that is used in canning will also do it.   This requires the
> 
> water to be heated to make the solution and heat continue for
> dissolving 
> the tap, so if the item is too big, it won't work. 
> 
> Charles
> 
> Roger Olsen wrote:
> 
> >Hello Justin,
> >
> >I am the one who posed the original question about a broken drill
> bit and
> >how to anneal them.  Mine was in a bar of 1 inch  forged mild steel.
>  I
> >was hoping to take a heat on the section and anneal as tool steel. 
> What
> >finally worked for me was drilling from the back side and center
> >punching,  not as simple as it sounds cuz I had already bunged up
> the hole
> >from the front side but it did finally work.
> >
> >My method soes not sound like an option for you but it looks like
> some
> >good tips are coming in.
> >
> >Roger
> >________________________
> >
> >Justin Fellenz wrote:
> >
> >  
> >
> >>Roger,
> >>
> >>Please share how you got that stud out. A stud just twisted off
> below
> >>grade in an aluminum intake manifold I'm working on, so I drilled a
> >>lovely, perfectly centered hole in the stud and decided--foolish
> me--to
> >>try my handy-dandy blue-point screw extractor set, which broke off
> in
> >>the *%)#$(#+ hole. So now I have high-carbon steel in a soft steel
> >>cylinder in aluminum, flush. I can get the broken end of the
> extractor
> >>good and red without the aluminum disappearing on me, but obviously
> >>cant go hotter. I was hoping that I could anneal the extractor by
> >>keeping the surrounding aluminum warm and then I figgered I'd try
> my
> >>own idea of heating the durn thing up and then drilling. The heat
> runs
> >>away so fast I ended up drilling while torching and the drill got
> red
> >>real fast. Maybe thats the answer though. I'm kind of at an
> impasse.
> >>
> >>Oh, this is a manifold off an old military truck, not the kind of
> thing
> >>I want to wreck and have to replace. Goes without saying I suppose.
> >>
> >>So...howd'ja do it?
> >>
> >>Thanks,
> >>
> >>Justin.
> >>
> >>    
> >>
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
> theforge mail list group photo site is
> http://www.photoaccess.com
> Login:  blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
> password:  anvil
> ___________
> 
> 
>