[TheForge] Re: brill dit stock (grrr)

Justin Fellenz sunironworks at yahoo.com
Wed Jun 1 23:05:24 EDT 2005 

Chuck,

This is a real good idea. I've had some good luck welding bolts to the
stud when I can get to it, but the drilled out bolt is a good way to
get those way-down-deep ones.

Problem is the screw extractor I used is one of those fluted jobs, not
the type with a left-hand thread that screws out but the kind with
parllalel sides that you hammer into an undersize hole. Blue
Point--ever used one? No, I bet not, because they're crap. Anyway...the
thing needs to come straight out. Could be I could use your idea to
weld something to attach a slide hammer onto, though....

Tomorrow is another day. 

Thanks for your input.

JRF

--- Chuck Robinson <robi5515 at bellsouth.net> wrote:

> Hey Justin,
> I just found the article in the Home Shop Machinist  March/April 2004
> bout 
> removing broken taps and studs.
>  Basically if the tap or stud is close to flush with the surface
> place the 
> next smaller size nut centered over the hole, reach down with a 1/16"
> 
> 308L-L16 rod at 65 amps DCEP and weld the stud to the nut
> It might take a few tries.
> If the stud/tap is broken further down in the hole, take a next size
> down 
> bolt, long enough to touch the stud/tap, center drill a hole in it
> -large 
> enough for the rod to reach the offending part and weld the bolt to
> it.
> I also found that a few squirts of Sili-Kroil penetrant really helps.
> when 
> backing out the bolt.
> Chuck
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Justin Fellenz" <sunironworks at yahoo.com>
> To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 6:54 PM
> Subject: Re: [TheForge] Re: brill dit stock (grrr)
> 
> 
> > Roger,
> >
> > Please share how you got that stud out. A stud just twisted off
> below
> > grade in an aluminum intake manifold I'm working on, so I drilled a
> > lovely, perfectly centered hole in the stud and decided--foolish
> me--to
> > try my handy-dandy blue-point screw extractor set, which broke off
> in
> > the *%)#$(#+ hole. So now I have high-carbon steel in a soft steel
> > cylinder in aluminum, flush. I can get the broken end of the
> extractor
> > good and red without the aluminum disappearing on me, but obviously
> > cant go hotter. I was hoping that I could anneal the extractor by
> > keeping the surrounding aluminum warm and then I figgered I'd try
> my
> > own idea of heating the durn thing up and then drilling. The heat
> runs
> > away so fast I ended up drilling while torching and the drill got
> red
> > real fast. Maybe thats the answer though. I'm kind of at an
> impasse.
> >
> > Oh, this is a manifold off an old military truck, not the kind of
> thing
> > I want to wreck and have to replace. Goes without saying I suppose.
> >
> > So...howd'ja do it?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Justin.
> >
> > --- Roger Olsen <erik at methow.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Hi Ralph,
> >>
> >> Thank you for the offer to send over a stick of Stud Plus but I
> have
> >> no need at
> >> this time.  I solverd my immediatee problem thru stubborness and
> the
> >> sacrifice
> >> of other bits.  I will definitly keep the Stud Plus in mind and
> when
> >> next at
> >> the welding supply by a stick or two.  I had never heard of it
> >> before.
> >>
> >> I sure appreciate all this exchange of information and offers of
> >> help.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Roger
> >> _________________________
> >>
> >> Ralph Sproul wrote:
> >>
> >> > Larry has a good point on this one if the tap is only down about
> >> 1/8 of an
> >> > inch.  This rod is called Stud plus by Allstates repair rods.  I
> >> have
> >> > purchased and used two packages of this rod for removal of
> broken
> >> studs and
> >> > bolts from flywheels, dampers, castings, etc.
> >> >
> >> > I've found the rod does what Larry says and stays to the center
> if
> >> your not
> >> > to deep.  The flux goes out and fills the threads.  On deeper
> holes
> >> where
> >> > something is in about 3/8 to 3/4 deep.......I've used a piece of
> >> rubber
> >> > vacuum hose over the stick to make sure I dont' side arc the
> >> threads.   When
> >> > it is a real critical location I've also used those fibre faucet
> >> washers as
> >> > "bullseyes" to make sure I hit dead center on the broken stud or
> >> bolt with
> >> > the rod.
> >> >
> >> > Roger, do you want me to send along a rod of this material.   It
> is
> >> like
> >> > 150,018........and it forms up like an icicle - one tack on top
> of
> >> the other
> >> > until you can get a grip on the stack of repair rod with a set
> of
> >> vice
> >> > grips - or welding on a nut to get a better two sided twist
> works
> >> well also.
> >> > So it does not weld up like stud welding - but rather one tack
> on
> >> top of the
> >> > next to build it out to where you can get at it.
> >> >
> >> > Ralph
> >> >
> >> > ----- Original Message -----
> >> > From: "Larry and Pat Brown" <lp.brown at verizon.net>
> >> > To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> >> > Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 9:42 PM
> >> > Subject: Re: [TheForge] drill bit stock
> >> >
> >> > > Do you have an electric welder? They sell a rod for building
> up
> >> broken
> >> > > bolts to get them out, The rod burns in the center, under the
> >> coating and
> >> > > doesn't arc to the sides allowing you to puddle a new bolt
> shaft.
> >> Used
> >> > them
> >> > > about 4 times with success. Would have used more but that was
> all
> >> that was
> >> > > in the sample pack. I would try to heat the bit first, then
> build
> >> it up to
> >> > > where vise grips will help
> >> > > Larry Brown
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > > At 08:50 AM 5/31/2005 -0700, you wrote:
> >> > > >Does anyone out there know the type of stock used in the
> common
> >> hardware
> >> > > >store high speed drill bits for steel.  Do you per chance
> know
> >> the steps
> >> > > >for annealing them.
> >> > > >
> >> > > >Yes,  I ask because I broke a drill bit in a piece of stock
> >> where
> >> > > >welding, reforging, and repositioning was not an option.  I
> >> tried all
> >> > > >the tricks as well as attemting to anneal as I would a common
> >> high
> >> > > >carbon steel and drill it out but it seemed to have little or
> no
> >> affect.
> >> > > >
> >> > > >Thank you,
> >> > > >
> >> > > >Roger Olsen
> >> > > >
> >> > > >_______________________________________________
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> >> > > >___________
> >> > >
> >> > >
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> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> >
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> >
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> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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>

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