[TheForge] Re: brill dit stock (grrr)
Justin Fellenz
sunironworks at yahoo.com
Wed Jun 1 19:54:05 EDT 2005
Roger,
Please share how you got that stud out. A stud just twisted off below
grade in an aluminum intake manifold I'm working on, so I drilled a
lovely, perfectly centered hole in the stud and decided--foolish me--to
try my handy-dandy blue-point screw extractor set, which broke off in
the *%)#$(#+ hole. So now I have high-carbon steel in a soft steel
cylinder in aluminum, flush. I can get the broken end of the extractor
good and red without the aluminum disappearing on me, but obviously
cant go hotter. I was hoping that I could anneal the extractor by
keeping the surrounding aluminum warm and then I figgered I'd try my
own idea of heating the durn thing up and then drilling. The heat runs
away so fast I ended up drilling while torching and the drill got red
real fast. Maybe thats the answer though. I'm kind of at an impasse.
Oh, this is a manifold off an old military truck, not the kind of thing
I want to wreck and have to replace. Goes without saying I suppose.
So...howd'ja do it?
Thanks,
Justin.
--- Roger Olsen <erik at methow.com> wrote:
> Hi Ralph,
>
> Thank you for the offer to send over a stick of Stud Plus but I have
> no need at
> this time. I solverd my immediatee problem thru stubborness and the
> sacrifice
> of other bits. I will definitly keep the Stud Plus in mind and when
> next at
> the welding supply by a stick or two. I had never heard of it
> before.
>
> I sure appreciate all this exchange of information and offers of
> help.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Roger
> _________________________
>
> Ralph Sproul wrote:
>
> > Larry has a good point on this one if the tap is only down about
> 1/8 of an
> > inch. This rod is called Stud plus by Allstates repair rods. I
> have
> > purchased and used two packages of this rod for removal of broken
> studs and
> > bolts from flywheels, dampers, castings, etc.
> >
> > I've found the rod does what Larry says and stays to the center if
> your not
> > to deep. The flux goes out and fills the threads. On deeper holes
> where
> > something is in about 3/8 to 3/4 deep.......I've used a piece of
> rubber
> > vacuum hose over the stick to make sure I dont' side arc the
> threads. When
> > it is a real critical location I've also used those fibre faucet
> washers as
> > "bullseyes" to make sure I hit dead center on the broken stud or
> bolt with
> > the rod.
> >
> > Roger, do you want me to send along a rod of this material. It is
> like
> > 150,018........and it forms up like an icicle - one tack on top of
> the other
> > until you can get a grip on the stack of repair rod with a set of
> vice
> > grips - or welding on a nut to get a better two sided twist works
> well also.
> > So it does not weld up like stud welding - but rather one tack on
> top of the
> > next to build it out to where you can get at it.
> >
> > Ralph
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Larry and Pat Brown" <lp.brown at verizon.net>
> > To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 9:42 PM
> > Subject: Re: [TheForge] drill bit stock
> >
> > > Do you have an electric welder? They sell a rod for building up
> broken
> > > bolts to get them out, The rod burns in the center, under the
> coating and
> > > doesn't arc to the sides allowing you to puddle a new bolt shaft.
> Used
> > them
> > > about 4 times with success. Would have used more but that was all
> that was
> > > in the sample pack. I would try to heat the bit first, then build
> it up to
> > > where vise grips will help
> > > Larry Brown
> > >
> > >
> > > At 08:50 AM 5/31/2005 -0700, you wrote:
> > > >Does anyone out there know the type of stock used in the common
> hardware
> > > >store high speed drill bits for steel. Do you per chance know
> the steps
> > > >for annealing them.
> > > >
> > > >Yes, I ask because I broke a drill bit in a piece of stock
> where
> > > >welding, reforging, and repositioning was not an option. I
> tried all
> > > >the tricks as well as attemting to anneal as I would a common
> high
> > > >carbon steel and drill it out but it seemed to have little or no
> affect.
> > > >
> > > >Thank you,
> > > >
> > > >Roger Olsen
> > > >
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