[TheForge] Re: brill dit stock

Wed Jun 1 19:56:03 EDT 2005

Hi Roger,  Always good to know you solved the problem - one usually has to -
to finish up and get paid.

Last year before the prices of steel and all alloys went thru the roof -
this stud plus sold for $38 for a 1 lb package of three sizes of rods in
it..........now I can't imagine the cost - but with some bolts I had burried
in a skidder center section (upside down) and some in engine balancers, next
to the radiator, and yet more in cast blocks in the middle of mechanical
mazes, and the whole tree chipper that exploded (when it ate a rock - or
should I say was fed one!) - and sheared off forty two 1" bolts in it's
10,000 lb flywheel.  Those 42 bolts were grade eights and bent before
snapping - so this rod enabled me to get them to the surface and weld nuts
to the remaining stub and get them out.  It took a day to get all those
bolts out - but I can't imagine how long it would have taken otherwise.
This rod has saved my hide - and kept me from dismantling entire machines to
save them.

It's worth it if you find a package for a decent price........but I just
paid $72 for a pound of nickle rod that welds oil soaked cast......seems
everyone is getting into the act of sticking it to the metalworker as much
as they can now that metal prices have gone thru their free for all.

I'm not sure what the current price on this rod is - but if it's $35-50
........it is well worth it - when you need it.

Sorry that Larry didn't suggest it sooner.  How did  you get the broken bit?
heat, acid, punch, torch, air arc, or carbide bit?   Everyone loves a story
where you get to win one every once in a while.

as a side note - I've taken to using gun taps as they self center more with
the three flutes - more so than the traditional four flute machinist
taps.........which can go off sideways and break easier.   I say this as I
have terrible taping karma........  and need to do anything I can to
increase my odds.

Ralph

----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Olsen" <erik at methow.com>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 5:43 PM
Subject: [TheForge] Re: brill dit stock

> Hi Ralph,
>
> Thank you for the offer to send over a stick of Stud Plus but I have no
need at
> this time.  I solverd my immediatee problem thru stubborness and the
sacrifice
> of other bits.  I will definitly keep the Stud Plus in mind and when next
at
> the welding supply by a stick or two.  I had never heard of it before.
>
> I sure appreciate all this exchange of information and offers of help.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Roger
> _________________________
>
> Ralph Sproul wrote:
>
> > Larry has a good point on this one if the tap is only down about 1/8 of
an
> > inch.  This rod is called Stud plus by Allstates repair rods.  I have
> > purchased and used two packages of this rod for removal of broken studs
and
> > bolts from flywheels, dampers, castings, etc.
> >
> > I've found the rod does what Larry says and stays to the center if your
not
> > to deep.  The flux goes out and fills the threads.  On deeper holes
where
> > something is in about 3/8 to 3/4 deep.......I've used a piece of rubber
> > vacuum hose over the stick to make sure I dont' side arc the threads.
When
> > it is a real critical location I've also used those fibre faucet washers
as
> > "bullseyes" to make sure I hit dead center on the broken stud or bolt
with
> > the rod.
> >
> > Roger, do you want me to send along a rod of this material.   It is like
> > 150,018........and it forms up like an icicle - one tack on top of the
other
> > until you can get a grip on the stack of repair rod with a set of vice
> > grips - or welding on a nut to get a better two sided twist works well
also.
> > So it does not weld up like stud welding - but rather one tack on top of
the
> > next to build it out to where you can get at it.
> >
> > Ralph
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Larry and Pat Brown" <lp.brown at verizon.net>
> > To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 9:42 PM
> > Subject: Re: [TheForge] drill bit stock
> >
> > > Do you have an electric welder? They sell a rod for building up broken
> > > bolts to get them out, The rod burns in the center, under the coating
and
> > > doesn't arc to the sides allowing you to puddle a new bolt shaft. Used
> > them
> > > about 4 times with success. Would have used more but that was all that
was
> > > in the sample pack. I would try to heat the bit first, then build it
up to
> > > where vise grips will help
> > > Larry Brown
> > >
> > >
> > > At 08:50 AM 5/31/2005 -0700, you wrote:
> > > >Does anyone out there know the type of stock used in the common
hardware
> > > >store high speed drill bits for steel.  Do you per chance know the
steps
> > > >for annealing them.
> > > >
> > > >Yes,  I ask because I broke a drill bit in a piece of stock where
> > > >welding, reforging, and repositioning was not an option.  I tried all
> > > >the tricks as well as attemting to anneal as I would a common high
> > > >carbon steel and drill it out but it seemed to have little or no
affect.
> > > >
> > > >Thank you,
> > > >
> > > >Roger Olsen
> > > >
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