[TheForge] Ceramic Chip Forge Workshop?

[Rowland Smuck]

How about using broken up kiln shelves??????????
Rowland of Roseburg, OR 97470
10 miles west to the nearest Red Light,
100 miles east to the first Red Light that way
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bruce Freeman" <FREEMAB at pt.fdah.com>
To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 8:26 AM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Ceramic Chip Forge Workshop?


Well, how about using a graphite-based "chip".  Graphite crucibles are used 
for high-temperature melts.  Maybe we could even fill the "chip" forge with 
hard coke pieces.  As long as there is no excess oxygen, they wouldn't burn 
up, and if they did - so what?

Bruce
NJ

>>> robi5515 at bellsouth.net 7/13/2005 4:50:53 PM >>>
Hey Mike,
I still can't find any information on the maximum temperature a ceramic chip
forge can generate.
The info on alumna balls  shows a 2000 F working temp.
The temps that I would like are 2500+ F. I believe most of the material
suggested so far would melt at this temperature.
Another concern is the location and shape of the burner & diffuser cone
below the chips.  It appears that it would take a radical design change in
the burner to prevent fouling and clogging  from the flux used in forge
welding.
The design really appears to me to be more practical for brazing and low
temp forging
The 2 main reasons for my using higher temperatures in forge  welding are:
scale formation, and grain growth in my Damascus steel  work.
Chuck

Message ----- 
From: <keporter at comcast.net>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2005 12:56 PM
Subject: Re: [TheForge] Ceramic Chip Forge Workshop?


>
>
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
>
>> Mike,
>> That sounds like an interesting idea. I like working with coal except for
>> the
>> mess and the smoke, and a ceramic chip forge sounds good. If a castable
>> refractory could be used for the "chips", then it might be feasible. (I
>> don't
>> know where we'd come up with ceramic chips, otherwise.)
>>
>
> Bruce
> You could use old broken fire brick or broken white ware (no glazing) from
> a ceramic shop. However, round balls will give better flow carracteristics
> as the flame moves through them, and will be easier to push work into.
> Castable refractory is always my first choice for shaped parts, and kiln
> furniture is my prefference for any part it can be employed with. Kiln
> furniture is top grade refractory that has been cured at high heats for as
> much as three days; thus it is more stable than castable refractory (no
> chance for air bubbles, or cracking during curing).
> Normally, I don't recommend simple clay for any refractory use, but every
> rule has its exceptions. Small refractory balls are not going to be
> inclined to crack if they're made carefully; It is hardly a trajedy if
> some of them do. Thus, the choice between clay or castable balls would
> boil down to economics. Some places castable refractory is cheap and
> potter's clay is expensive; other places, visa versa. It is only a matter
> of convenience.
> If you choose clay, I would suggest a small icecream scoop as a forming
> tool.
> Mike P.
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