[TheForge] damascus ring making--a how to question

[Justin Fellenz]

Thanks for all the advice, folks. I think I'll try the annealed Ti
route (anybody have a supplier?). I'll post some pics if it's worth
looking at.

Looks like I could also use a typing course.

J


--- Andrew Vida <osan at netlabs.net> wrote:

> 
> 
> Justin Fellenz wrote:
> > All,
> > 
> > I have a very nice m/s and sawblade damascus billet done up that
> will
> > become my wedding ring. I see that most of the damascus ringmakers
> use
> > an inner sleeve of titanium or silver to prevent corrosion against
> the
> > skin. I'm not sure how to do this. My best guess is that you cut an
> > inner sleeve and silver solder them together if you're using
> titanium
> > (I was thinking of just using stainless since I have some) but I'm
> not
> > sure how you'd do it with a softer precious metal. Would you just
> heat
> > the steel and touch a rod onto it like solder and then cut to
> shape?
> > You'd need to etch with the silver on, does that work? Can you use
> > silver solder for this or do you need purer metal? Would it work
> with
> > gold?
> 
> 	You can braze the silver with no trouble at all.  The secret is a
> very 
> tight joint.  Another thing you can do (not necessary, but it makes
> for 
> a VERY clean joint) is to stippple the inside of the steel and/or the
> 
> outside of the silver.  If you have access to a knife grinder, put a 
> 9micron belt on and grind silver solder into a fine dust.    Mix with
> 
> water and borax into a paste (vast majority should be silver) to make
> a 
> soldering compound which is painted on the surfaces.  Assemble and
> sweat 
> normally.  You should end up with a structurally sound joint that
> will 
> require very little or even no cleanup.  I would do the etching after
> 
> you braze.  HCL will not eat the silver.  My other suggestion is to
> heat 
> the steel when brazing.  It has a higher MP.  Let the heat travel
> from 
> the steel into the silver.  All it takes is a little patience and
> close 
> attention to what's going on.
> 
> If you use Ti, best solution I can think of is a very slight
> shrink-fit. 
>     You will have to turn/grind the OD of the Ti about 5-tenths 
> (0.0005") over the ID of the steel band.  I would made an assembly
> jig 
> for this as you will get but one chance at it.  Place Ti in freezer
> or 
> better yet, dry ice.  Heat steel to about 800*, slip them together
> and 
> there you go.  Etch and finish as desired.  You can do the same with 
> stainless, but I think it's boring and horrible stuff for jewelry,
> but 
> that's my problem.
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