[TheForge] Brooms and Welding Cast

Washington, Aubrey O. awashington at ou.edu
Thu Dec 15 13:34:28 EST 2005


Ralph,
 
I've never had much luck running anything overhead.  Fortunately, most of the stuff I've welded on can be repositioned so I can do flat or horizontal.  (I'll never be a pipeline welder.)
 
Thanks for the explanation of DC straight and reverse.  I knew there was a difference; I just didn't know about the benefits of penetration vs. build-up.
 
Aubrey

________________________________

From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net on behalf of Ralph Sproul
Sent: Thu 12/15/2005 12:45 PM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Brooms and Welding Cast



        Aubrey, I don't know if my message in reply to Dan got thru as my mail dial
up keeps cutting me off, but Dan asked about 7014 - and that works well on
AC..........and it is supposed to run well in all positions.........BUT, I
never had any luck running it in overhead or vertical welds, I stuck mostly
to horizontal and flat welds with it.
        That's what the chart indicates as you say - everything but 0 or 5 - but
like I said above, I never had luck with 7014 in overhead or vertical
welding, so it's a general guide to start with for rod selection.

        DC allows you to use the polarity of the machine to control if the rod or
work is hotter.  With DC reverse polarity the rod is hot.............good
for penetration, with DC straight polarity, the work is hot........good for
build up.

Ralph


-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Washington, Aubrey
O.
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 1:08 PM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Brooms and Welding Cast


Ralph,
Okay, according to the attachment you sent me through the super secret
back-channel, any electrode number that DOES NOT end with "0" or "5" can be
used with AC or DC.  Right?  Though I understand some may perform better
with DC.

Aubrey

________________________________

From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net on behalf of Ralph Sproul
Sent: Thu 12/15/2005 12:07 PM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Brooms and Welding Cast



I'm not Frosty, but I'll throw in my 2 cents.

6011 - great AC fast freezing rod that will burn thru just about anything
and make it stick.

6013 and 7014 work very well  well as deposition/build up rods on DC
straight polarity.  I'm not sure how they work on AC - been to long since
I've used a buzz box (better than 25 years now).

7018 is the best all around repair rod for repairs(when dealing with fairly
clean metal) as it's low hydrogen qualities lend it to a miraid of
fastenings from mild steel to mild steel (general fabrication - where ever
the steel is coming from making it dissimilar), mild steel to low to medium
carbon steels (repairs of equipment and machines, like cutting edges on
buckets, etc.), and low to mid carbon steels to abraision plate - again for
buckets.  You pretty much need DC reverse polarity for this rod to work it's
best.  Yes, they do make an AC rod - do I know if it works well?......not
really haven't tried it - I have four DC machines.

I was asked to weld a cast iron chimney damper yesterday.  It was a decent
quality cast and it brazed well.  I've found trying to electric weld old
fire exposed cast as a waste of time. The braze went well......used a flux
coated rod.......the flux color was
Blue.  :-)

Ralph

-----Original Message-----
From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Washington, Aubrey
O.
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 9:42 AM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Brooms and Welding Cast


Frosty,
You certainly have described my experience with E6011...burnthrough holes or
sticking, depending on amps.  My impression is that 6013 is less prone to
burnthrough, but also penetrates less.  Or, maybe it's less prone to
sticking at amp levels that don't burn through.

Anyway, assuming I can clean up the joint to bare metal, what rod do you
like for general fabricating and repair?

Aubrey

________________________________

From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net on behalf of frosty at customcpu.com
Sent: Wed 12/14/2005 9:36 PM
To: Sponsored by ABANA
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Brooms and Welding Cast



I've gotten lots of encouragement in my life though I wasn't really trying
to
be encourageing, I was just giving it to ya straight. <grin>

E-6011 or 6013 are good fast freeze rods. I tend to favor 6013 for field
repairs and out of position welds. Both are insensitive to dirt, grease,
paint, water, etc. just like you find virtually anywhere on a drill rig.

It's not the easiest to weld with though and doesn't like being overamped.
Overamping does help keep it from sticking but tends to make more
burnthrough
holes than it fills.

Filling burnthrough holes. BOY have I filled holes! <grin>

Frosty


Quoting "Washington, Aubrey O." <awashington at ou.edu>:

> Frosty,
> Thanks for the encouragement.  I had been using mainly E6011 because of
its
> deep penetration and ability to work on the dirty scrap I have around the
> shop.  But recently I tried some E6013 with somewhat prettier results.  I
> still need lots more practice.
>
> For those following the saga of the broke cast iron post drill part:  Over
> the weekend I got started forging a replacement part.  (Only had a couple
of
> hours in the shop, so I didn't get it finished.)  My plan is to try
brazing
> the original after I get the replacement finished.
>
> Aubrey
>



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