[TheForge] Brooms and Welding Cast

[Dan Tull]

What happened to  E7014?


NOT low Hydrogen. Out of shape, position,etc.
Why would you need 7018 for steel less than 3/8" tk?


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ralph Sproul" <brhlbsmt at mcttelecom.com>
To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 1:07 PM
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Brooms and Welding Cast


> I'm not Frosty, but I'll throw in my 2 cents.
>
> 6011 - great AC fast freezing rod that will burn thru just about anything
> and make it stick.
>
> 6013 and 7014 work very well  well as deposition/build up rods on DC
> straight polarity.  I'm not sure how they work on AC - been to long since
> I've used a buzz box (better than 25 years now).
>
> 7018 is the best all around repair rod for repairs(when dealing with 
> fairly
> clean metal) as it's low hydrogen qualities lend it to a miraid of
> fastenings from mild steel to mild steel (general fabrication - where ever
> the steel is coming from making it dissimilar), mild steel to low to 
> medium
> carbon steels (repairs of equipment and machines, like cutting edges on
> buckets, etc.), and low to mid carbon steels to abraision plate - again 
> for
> buckets.  You pretty much need DC reverse polarity for this rod to work 
> it's
> best.  Yes, they do make an AC rod - do I know if it works well?......not
> really haven't tried it - I have four DC machines.
>
> I was asked to weld a cast iron chimney damper yesterday.  It was a decent
> quality cast and it brazed well.  I've found trying to electric weld old
> fire exposed cast as a waste of time. The braze went well......used a flux
> coated rod.......the flux color was
> Blue.  :-)
>
> Ralph
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Washington, Aubrey
> O.
> Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 9:42 AM
> To: Sponsored by ABANA
> Subject: RE: [TheForge] Brooms and Welding Cast
>
>
> Frosty,
> You certainly have described my experience with E6011...burnthrough holes 
> or
> sticking, depending on amps.  My impression is that 6013 is less prone to
> burnthrough, but also penetrates less.  Or, maybe it's less prone to
> sticking at amp levels that don't burn through.
>
> Anyway, assuming I can clean up the joint to bare metal, what rod do you
> like for general fabricating and repair?
>
> Aubrey
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net on behalf of frosty at customcpu.com
> Sent: Wed 12/14/2005 9:36 PM
> To: Sponsored by ABANA
> Subject: RE: [TheForge] Brooms and Welding Cast
>
>
>
> I've gotten lots of encouragement in my life though I wasn't really trying
> to
> be encourageing, I was just giving it to ya straight. <grin>
>
> E-6011 or 6013 are good fast freeze rods. I tend to favor 6013 for field
> repairs and out of position welds. Both are insensitive to dirt, grease,
> paint, water, etc. just like you find virtually anywhere on a drill rig.
>
> It's not the easiest to weld with though and doesn't like being overamped.
> Overamping does help keep it from sticking but tends to make more
> burnthrough
> holes than it fills.
>
> Filling burnthrough holes. BOY have I filled holes! <grin>
>
> Frosty
>
>
> Quoting "Washington, Aubrey O." <awashington at ou.edu>:
>
>> Frosty,
>> Thanks for the encouragement.  I had been using mainly E6011 because of
> its
>> deep penetration and ability to work on the dirty scrap I have around the
>> shop.  But recently I tried some E6013 with somewhat prettier results.  I
>> still need lots more practice.
>>
>> For those following the saga of the broke cast iron post drill part: 
>> Over
>> the weekend I got started forging a replacement part.  (Only had a couple
> of
>> hours in the shop, so I didn't get it finished.)  My plan is to try
> brazing
>> the original after I get the replacement finished.
>>
>> Aubrey
>>
>
>
>
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