[TheForge] Welding cast iron

[Bob Ehrenberger]

Ralph,

Thanks for your reply.  450 will be easier to manage than 600.  I was
planning on putting it back in the oven after welding, let it soak for a
while and then just turning it of and letting it cool down in the oven.  I
still have some cast iron rod from the last time, I hope it will be enough.
Not sure about the nickel content, will check tomorrow. It should still be
OK since it has been stored in an air tight rod holder.

We are going to have a cold snap the next few days  (single digit highs)  so
I'll wait until later in the week when it's going to get  back into the
30's.  Besides I have an order that I need to get out in the first part of
the week.

Robert Ehrenberger
Shelbyville, Mo.
eforge at centurytel.net


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ralph Sproul" <brhlbsmt at mcttelecom.com>
To: "Bob Ehrenberger" <eforge at centurytel.net>; "Sponsored by ABANA"
<theforge at mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 04, 2005 5:40 PM
Subject: RE: [TheForge] Welding cast iron


> Hi Bob, I usually preheat to 450.  I then do stitch welds about 3/4 - 1
1/4"
> long and peen them to stress relieve them as I go along. The other thing
is
> my second stitch is opposite of the first one (if you can get to the
> opposite side of the repair.  This tends to keep the stress even
especially
> when getting it together rugged enough to keep at it.  The other thing is
if
> I'm doing lots of welds I check the weldment with a tempil marker to keep
it
> under 750-800 degrees.  With mulitple passes - this heat can build up
rather
> quickly if the part is small........so I slow down - work on something
else
> and keep welding not allowing it to really go below 400 again.  When I'm
> done, I wrap the larger parts in a piece of insulation and let it cool
> slower than by leaving it alone in still air.
>
> I find V'ing out the weld 1/3 from each side - and leaving a good
reference
> in the center for the part to go back together exactly where it cracked or
> broke apart. (of coure jagged or shard sections need removed, and ends of
> cracks if you have any should be drilled.....to keep them from traveling
> further.
>
> I hope you have some of the rod already - or hold on to your hat when you
go
> to buy any.......nickel rod is expensive.  There are about a half dozen
> different rods for cast repair.  There is 99% nickel, 50% nickel, 2%
nickel,
> no nickle, and then the repair rods for oily/dirty cast, etc.   If you
have
> a couple types try them to see which one works best.  Some of the rods
(just
> to warn you - are not machineable) so they must be ground for clean up or
> finish.
>
> I also find on smaller parts that clamping them to a plate and preheating
> the plate and part keeps the weldment more consistent temperature wise.
>
> Good luck
>
> Ralph
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:theforge-bounces at mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Bob Ehrenberger
> Sent: Sunday, December 04, 2005 11:56 AM
> To: theforge
> Subject: [TheForge] Welding cast iron
>
>
> I have a need to weld a cast iron part.  What is the appropriat
preheat/post
> heat temp.
>
> I was thinking around 600 deg. Am I close?
>
> The last time (about 10 years ago) I just put the part on top of the wood
> burning stove. Now I have an oven in the shop so I can use a little more
> control.
>
> Robert Ehrenberger
> Shelbyville, Mo.
> eforge at centurytel.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Manage membership or unsubscribe at:
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/theforge
> theforge mail list group photo site is
> http://www.photoaccess.com
> Login:  blacksmithblacksmith at hotmail.com
> password:  anvil
> ___________
>
>
>
>