[TheForge] oil finish

[Bruce Freeman]

Larry,
That depends what it IS.  Also depends upon what exactly you applied to it.  Japan drier is an alternative to cooking.  So you could try cooking it as is - but NOT in any appliance you EVER want to use again for food.  Japan drier is a poison.

Alternatively, you could remove the finish and redo it.

An intermediate fix would be to just remove the stickiness and see what you've got left.  If it's washable, try washing it in detergent and water.   Alternatively, use paint thinner on it.  You'll lose some or all of the protection and might even screw up the coating, but you're probabably gonna have to do a major rework on the finish anyway, unless you really luck out.

Bruce
NJ

>>> lp.brown at verizon.net 8/2/2005 11:06:57 PM >>>
My question is how do I make it un sticky?
Larry Brown



At 06:40 PM 8/2/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>Bruce, Thanks.......that "polymerization catalytic" was what someone else
>had mentioned that boiled Linseed did.......       Me, .........I just
>wonder why the hell the stuff stays sticky!  :-)
>
>Ralph
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Bruce Freeman" <FREEMAB at pt.fdah.com>
>To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 8:51 AM
>Subject: Re: [TheForge] oil finish
>
>
>I was wondering about that word.  I'm not sure there is a simple word for
>what you mean:  promoting polymerization.  Perhaps "polymerization
>catalytic"?
>
>Bruce
>NJ
>
> >>> brhlbsmt at mcttelecom.com 8/2/2005 7:24:15 AM >>>
>Ooops, that was supposed to read Polymeritic action.......  If that's
>spelled right?
>
>Ralph
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Ralph Sproul" <brhlbsmt at mcttelecom.com>
>To: "Sponsored by ABANA" <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
>Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 6:57 AM
>Subject: Re: [TheForge] oil finish
>
>
> > Hi Larry, I've had some similar problems with plain or mixed linseed
> > finishes in the past.
> >
> > Adding Japan drier to the mix will help the slow poermaritic action that
>is
> > SUPPOSED to occur with BOILED Linseed Oil ................but you can see
> > the key word is BOILED!   Some of these process plants use the osmosis
> > machines to "boil down" the oils (like boiling sap for sugaring) and it
> > doesn't leave the oil so it will dry well is my findings.   I purchase the
> > true boiled linseed oils (which is usually twice the price of the other
> > cheaper versions and it works well for drying.
> >
> > Of course the temperature is a consideration in the winter months - three
> > day drying times can be expected - where on a sunny summer day with dry
>air
> > and no humidity you can see results in half the time or less.
> >
> > Ralph
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Larry Brown" <lp.brown at verizon.net>
> > To: <theforge at mailman.qth.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 9:18 PM
> > Subject: [TheForge] oil finish
> >
> >
> > > I have a piece I made using an oil finish that won't dry past the tacky
> > > stage. I used the same ingredients about 6 months before and mixed them
> > the
> > > same way and had no problem. This piece won't dry it's been over two
> > > months. Can linseed oil, turpentine or drier go bad? Anyone else have
>this
> > > problem? Solutions?
> > > Thanks
> > > L Brown
> >

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